Picking the right base is hard enough without having to factor in our changing complexions, but there are some effective, expert-approved tips and tricks for adjusting your foundation when it becomes too light or too dark.
When it comes to investing in a new best foundation, knowing how to find your foundation shade is one of the trickiest parts of the process, and the seasons just confuse things further. Whether your altered tone is the result of self-tanning your face or (safely) enjoying the sun, it's annoying having to buy a whole new foundation for a few months. So we've spoken to two makeup artists who shared how to alter your foundation shade throughout the year.
From adding bronzing drops to tactically applying a lighter concealer on top, you don't need to toss or retire your favourite complexion products in the summer or the wintertime, thanks to these six tricks of the trade.
How to adjust your foundation colour when it's too light or dark
Whatever your base preference, be it full coverage or a sheer layer from the best lightweight foundation, we can all agree that we want our shade match to be flawless. Here, makeup artists Saffron Hughes and Ariane Young share straightforward tips on adjusting your foundation shade to create your perfect match.
1. Cocktail your formula
Adding a few drops of a warmer formula with your foundation before you apply it to your face can help add some depth. "Mixing in a liquid bronzer or a few drops of a deeper foundation can deepen the shade slightly," advises Hughes. Apply a pea-sized amount of foundation to the back of your hand, add a few drops of bronzer or darker foundation, and mix it in. Go slowly, a few drops at a time to build up the intensity.
Equally, if your foundation is looking a little too dark, you can "try adding a foundation lightening product to lift the tone slightly," recommends Hughes. A lot of makeup artists use these to alter base shades rather than having to cart around hundreds of foundations in their kit. Mix in a few drops into a dab of foundation on the back of your hand - don’t mix them in with the foundation in the bottle. And as with the liquid bronzer trick, go steady to avoid looking too ghostly."
e.l.f Bronzing Drops
RRP: £12
A few drops of this liquid bronzer add an instant warmth and radiance to any foundation. It also makes a great standalone glow-boosting bronzer.
RRP: £35
Infused with cold-pressed virgin marula oil and black currant seed oil, these drops work to hydrate the skin whilst also affording a bronzed tint to your complexion. You can mix them with any face oil or moisturiser to give your skin a post-holiday glow.
RRP: £16.95
Designed especially to lighten foundations that are too dark, this formula does its job very well. It's also available in deeper shades to darken formulas that are too pale.
2. Get strategic with bronzer
Knowing how to apply bronzer is the secret weapon behind warming up your light base, according to Hughes. "Use your usual base sparingly, then bring warmth back into the face with your best cream bronzer applied around the edges of the face, across the cheeks and the bridge of the nose. This gives a sun-kissed effect that blends more naturally with a deeper skin tone."
Merit Bronze Balm Sheer Bronzer
RRP: £26
The stick formula makes this quick and easy to apply, and the buttery texture blends like a dream - it's the best bronzer we've tried for a long time. It's available in five shades.
RRP: £21.50
If you prefer powder bronzer over cream, this one from NARS was actually ranked the best bronzer by our beauty team thanks to its buildable, lightweight formula and how seamlessly it blends into the skin, delivering a warm, light-from-within glow.
RRP: £50
A popular cream bronzer and team-favourite, Chanel's Les Beiges formula is a available in a range of shades and is buildable and so easy to blend.
3. Blend blend blend
"Don’t forget to blend your product into your ears and hairline,” recommends Hughes. "That’s often where a mismatched foundation shows first, especially if your tone has shifted. A few extra seconds of blending with your best makeup brushes can make the whole base look more natural and polished."
RRP: £52
The right foundation brush can work wonders for your application, and this one from Hourglass is a personal favourite of Digital Beauty Writer Naomi Jamieson's. Its angled shape and dense but soft bristles are designed to mimic a fingertip application and seamlessly buff and blend out all formulas - from sheer liquids to creamier foundation sticks.
RRP: £17.50
A beauty blender or makeup sponge is a classic choice for applying and blending out foundation. It's designed to be used wet, as the sponge expands and softens, to help you blend out your base products quickly and easily.
RRP: £9.99
For quick coverage, a wider foundation brush like this one from Real Techniques is another great option. Its soft bristles work with all formulas, from liquid to creams and ultra-sheer tints.
4. Check your undertone
"Sometimes it's not the depth but the undertone of your foundation that's off," suggests Young. "If your skin has taken on more warmth from the sun, lean into peachy, golden undertones in your makeup to enhance the overall harmony of your look."
Hughes says a warmer setting powder can have a similar effect, if you don’t want to experiment too much with new makeup shades. "A tinted setting powder with a golden undertone can also help soften the contrast and make the base look more balanced," she explains.
Kosas Cloud Set Setting Powder
RRP: £34
Available in 10 shades, this powder will prevent shine and oiliness without leaving skin looking flat, blur imperpections and improve the longevity of your base.
RRP: £40
Available in four shades, this finishing powder is a great buy for both adding warmth and brightening your complexion, as well as helping to set your complexion products. Its pressed, ultra-fine micro powder is designed to deliver a blurred and 'pore-less' effect.
RRP: £34
If you prefer a loose powder, these duos from Huda Beauty are a great option, especially if you want to adjust your foundation slightly. The pink shade, for instance, is great for brightening under your eyes and so on.
5. Sheering out the formula
A high-coverage matte formula in the wrong shade will look very obvious, but lightening the load will help it look lighter and more natural. "You can mix your foundation with your face moisturiser to sheer it out for a more natural, glowy finish," suggests Young. "Or try mixing it with another foundation or liquid illuminator to lighten the shade and coverage."
Rare Beauty Positive Light Liquid Luminizer
RRP: £26
Rare Beauty is a brand that does glow very well, and that's encompassed by their highlighters, which provide a mega-watt glow in just one dab.
RRP: £36
Available in a range of radiant shades, these Jones Road drops are designed to be worn alone, mixed with your foundation or applied as a highlighter over the top. There are lighter, champagne-y shades to richer bronze and copper tints - ideal for sheering out your foundations whilst also adding radiance and brightness.
RRP: £11.95
Another multi-tasker and a very affordable one at that, L'Oréal's Lumi Glotion can also be worn alone, mixed with your foundation and worn as a highlighter. It's also blended with glycerin and shea butter to deliver up to 24 hours of hydration.
6. Brighten the rest of your look
Adjusting the rest of your makeup can help balance the overall look, according to Young. If your foundation is looking a tad dark, "You can lighten up the look by brightening the centre of the face (under eyes, centre of the forehead, chin) with an ever-so-slightly lighter concealer to help bring balance."
MAC Cosmetics Studio Radiance 24HR Luminous Lift Concealer
RRP: £26
Available in an impressive 45 shades, this concealer will hide imperfections while treating skin with a formula made using 80% skincare ingredients.
RRP: £9.99
An icon for a reason, this affordable concealer is available in 15 shades and works to cover, contour or highlight your complexion - depending on your preferences and choice of shade.
RRP: £37
Available in over 30 shades, this Hourglass concealer is on the pricier side but so worth it. It's weightless, easy to blend, and works to diffuse and blur the appearance of fine lines, pores, and blemishes. The formulas are also highly pigmented - ideal for brightening and so on.
