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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

How long have you got? Three, five or seven days in Paris

The gardens of the Palace of Versailles
The gardens of the Palace of Versailles, home of the French monarchy. Photograph: DEA / G. SIOEN/Getty Images/DeAgostini

From the moment you arrive in Paris, the heady atmosphere of a grand, culturally rich, fashion-conscious city fills your senses. Whether you rush around sightseeing or sample Parisian life in the relaxed street cafes and cool bars, you’ll feel inspired by the French capital.

Three days in Paris
A great way to experience Paris is by wandering along the banks of the Seine. If you’re feeling energetic on arrival, consider the 7km route from Jardin des Plantes to Place de la Concorde. It takes you from the peaceful botanic gardens, across to the two islands in the Seine, Île St-Louis and Île de la Cité, where you’ll see Notre Dame Cathedral, through the Louvre’s courtyards, into the Jardin du Palais Royal, finishing with a magnificent view up the Champs Élysées from Place de la Concorde. Refuel afterwards at L’Ardoise, a bistro where head chef Pierre Jay serves hearty seasonal dishes and a well-priced (for Paris) set menu.

Georges restaurant at the Pompidou.
Georges restaurant at the Pompidou. Photograph: Alamy

On your second day visit the Louvre. The hordes of tourists and their selfie sticks may irritate you, but seeing the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo first hand is very special. If you’re flagging, Le Café Mollien in the Denon wing offers friendly service and lovely lattes. You could spend all day in the Louvre, but if you’re hoping to visit more than one gallery, the Centre Georges Pompidou is open until 9pm and, in dizzying contrast to the Louvre, is a shrine to modern art. As the gallery closes, head upstairs to the Georges restaurant where you’ll get a sensational view, sharp service and excellent cocktails.

If the weather is kind, spend your third morning at the romantic Jardin du Luxembourg, home of the Medici fountain. Les Papilles on Rue Gay-Lussac, an unpretentious bistro serving locally sourced produce, is a good shout for lunch. In the afternoon, amble around Musée Rodin and its beautiful gardens. End the day in style by splashing out on dinner at David Toutain’s acclaimed restaurant on Rue Surcouf, where conceptual cooking and unusual flavours meet root vegetable magic.

Exterior, Hilton Paris Opera
The Hilton Paris Opera is within easy walking distance of landmarks such as Palais Garnier and the Louvre. Photograph: Fabrice Rambert

If you’re looking for the perfectly-placed base while you explore the centre of Paris, Hilton Paris Opera is a landmark building in the heart of the city. Glamorous and historic, the hotel is within easy walking distance of Palais Garnier, the Galleries Lafayette and the Louvre.

Five days in Paris
Pack a picnic and enjoy your fourth day at Château Versailles on the outskirts of Paris. Take the RER C from Saint-Michel metro station (near Notre Dame) or Champ de Mars (near the Eiffel Tower). Take time to enjoy the 250 acres of gardens and famous fountains before going inside.

On day five, spend the morning in the incredible Père Lachaise cemetery, the most visited graveyard in the world. Take the metro to Gambetta and enter the atmospheric cemetery at the top, near the tomb of Oscar Wilde. Amble downhill, paying your respects at the graves of Édith Piaf and Jim Morrison. Exit on Avenue Philippe Auguste and walk towards the Père Lachaise metro station. Grab lunch at La Factorie Saint Amour before heading to Pigalle on line No 2. Now you’re perfectly placed to spend an afternoon in Montmartre, sipping coffee in street cafes, soaking up the arty vibe and sampling a French beer or two in any one of the bars on Place du Tertre.

Pere Lachaise Cemetery
Pere Lachaise cemetery. Photograph: Bruno De Hogues/Getty Images

Seven days in Paris
Go all-out for something completely different on day six: a magical day at Disneyland Paris. Book tickets online and the RER A train takes you from Châtelet Les Halles to the park gates in 40 minutes.

For a final museum fix on day seven, visit Musée Carnavalet and Musée Picasso, stopping for a lunch break of savoury crepes at Breizh Café. Then wander the colourful streets of the trendy Marais, finishing up at Glou on Rue Vieille du Temple, a hip bistro boasting a menu of bold flavours, shared dining tables and a friendly, relaxed vibe.

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