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It’s fair to say that there are many pretenders to the Cotswolds’ crown. In fact, it feels like every year, another part of the English countryside is anointed as the ‘new Cotswolds’. But while there’s no denying the bucolic charms of Norfolk, Suffolk, Somerset or West Sussex, each with their own version of a rural idyll; for me, the OG Cotswolds still has the edge.
The reason? Well, if there’s another region in the land with such a high concentration of top-notch country house hotels, many of them tooled specifically for weekends up from London, then I’m yet to find it.
From the Michelin-starred grandeur of Le Manor aux Quat’Saisons and A-list fave Soho Farm House to latest Insta-bait Estelle Manor, each has their own appeal, but all offer up a form of luxurious rural escapism that feels all the sweeter after a week of grinding out that daily commute.
One of latest to join the crowd is The Pig In the Cotswolds, the 10th property from the boutique group which opened last Autumn, but how does it stack up to the competition and against the other outposts from the beloved hotel group? Pretty favourably, as it turns out…
Where is it?
The village of Barnsley is just four miles from the centre of Cirencester — known as the Cotswolds’ capital – but it feels gloriously far removed from any vestiges of city life, surrounded as it is by rolling countryside and glorious meadows.
Barnsley is small, mind, with just a single pub, owned by The Pig, a village church and a smattering of honey-stoned houses.
Style
As those familiar with The Pig’s MO will know, the group offers a more casual take on the traditional country house experience, far less formal than Le Manoir, say. However, the 17th-century manor house holds its own among the Cotswolds’ most venerated hotels, and the Grade II, ivy-fringed gem is certainly among the most handsome in The Pig portfolio.
Inside, the style veers towards the boho-chic look and feel which fans will be familiar with: think rustic with contemporary accents and flea-market vintage flair.
Unlike some of the grander rural retreats in the region, this 20-bedroom property feels more human-sized – and it’s a welcome quality, more akin to the quirky country home of a well-heeled pal, with hidden snugs and cosy parlours perfect for sipping cocktails and playing boardgames by the fire.
And if you need reminding that you’re not in a fusty, dusty heritage hotel, then a visit to the loos, with their House of Hackney wallpaper and piped-in music will do the trick.
Food & Drink
The Pig’s 25-mile menu — with all ingredients either sourced locally or grown on-site – is one of the group’s biggest selling point, and it works well in the context, delivering gutsy comfort food which resonates soundly with the Millennial clientele. The lineup is – unsurprisingly – big on the pig, and the Pork Barnsley chop that was recommended by almost every single waiter was melt-in-the-mouth delicious.
For those of a less meat-based persuasion, the kitchen garden also serves up a variety of excellent vegetable dishes, including Evesham Heritage carrots with goat’s curd.
Some Cotswolds stays, particularly those geared towards older guests, are decidedly more fine-dining focused — think Whatley Manor or Thyme – but the level of cooking is just right for the Pig’s laid-back ethos, and the dining room itself is a real looker, a quirky convivial space with mismatched furniture and romantic lighting.
As for the drinks list, it’s the kind of selection that wouldn’t feel out of place in a Hackney dive bar, full of interesting natural wines alongside some rather punchy cocktails. A few White Negroni’s and you’ll be flying.
Facilities
As is de rigueur in such rural retreats, the wellness facilities are first-rate, boasting a terrific stone-walled spa with a sauna, steam room and very enticing looking hydrotherapy pool.
Unlike rangier competitors such as Soho Farm House, however, there is no gym on-site, but who really needs to work out on a weekend getaway, anyway? Instead, we’d recommend a turn around the ornamental gardens.
The confection of meandering paths, shaded archways, quirky water features and a lush Laburnum walkway was designed by horticultural legend Rosemary Verey, and it’s a truly unique feature.
Also worth an honourable mention is how charming and laid-back the staff are, with none of the snooty side eye that can come with the service at some other chains in the area.
Which room?
The 20 bedrooms are mainly spread across the house and the nearby stable yard, with those in the stables boasting a cottage-y feel, with sleeping quarters on a mezzanine and a lounge area and bathroom on the ground.
You get the sense that great fun was had sourcing the furniture, which follows the rustic-chic aesthetic of the public spaces, antique items and lush fabrics marrying confidently with Moroccan tiles in the bathroom and Art Deco mirrors.
There are also three special suites, which includes the aptly named Secret Garden where the USP is that it offer a private vantage point from which to enjoy Rosemary Verey’s original gardens, as well as a big freestanding bathtub. Sheer bliss.
Best for
A more laid-back version of a Cotwolds’ escape with an urban edge.
Rates start at £275 per night. thepighotel.com
