Rex Pickett wrote in Sideways that pinot noir is the “most haunting and brilliant grape variety”. It can be capable of creating some of the world’s most complex and finesse-filled wine, but it is equally capable of producing an expensive disappointment.
Unlike chardonnay, which can be grown anywhere and be pliant to any process, pinot is the Goldilocks of wine. It only flourishes in particular conditions and when afforded the utmost care on the part of vine-grower and winemaker alike.
Chile’s diverse terrain, perfect soil, and warm climate enable this capricious grape to flourish. Cono Sur in particular has put Chilean pinot on the international wine map. Its pinot is made from grapes grown in Chile’s oldest pinot sites and combines the traditional expertise of a Burgundian winemaker with innovative, modern techniques.
It is hard to put a stylistic harness on pinot noir. People fall in love with its heady perfume, silky texture, succulent fruit and ability to acquire earthy and umami-like layers. Due to its low tannins and light body, it is an affable companion to most food – it won’t be too overbearing. Yet its spicy and earthy nuances mean it can assert itself – there are no “shoulds” with pinot!
Amelia Singer is a wine consultant, educator and presenter on ITV’s The Wine Show
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