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North Asia correspondent James Oaten at the Korean Demilitarised Zone

How a team of Australians go into the world’s most dangerous strip of land to recover the remains of dead soldiers

When North Korea's communist forces crossed the border and rampaged through the south, Joonhee Wang's grandparents fled fearing for their lives.

Born in the north, her family spent each night listening to the sounds of gunfire, as the two sides battled for victory in the early 1950s.

It was only when the north reached the port city of Busan, where South Korean forces and its allies made a final stand, did the tide of the war finally turn.

The fighting ended in 1953, but in Korea the conflict is frozen in time.

The two opposing sides, still technically at war, are separated by a heavily fortified area called the Demilitarised Zone, which divides the Korean peninsula.

It is considered the world's most dangerous strip of land.

But a specialist team of Australians, including Joonhee, are risking their lives to travel into the zone and recover the bodies of those lost to history.

The risky process of recovering bodies in a danger zone

For decades, Joonhee Wang's grandparents never spoke about the horrors of that bloody period of history.

Joonhee moved from South Korea to Australia as a teenager, as her parents wanted to expand her world view.

She joined the Royal Australian Air Force after training as a pharmacist and became a flight lieutenant.

Then in July, the 30-year-old returned to her birthplace as part of a special overseas mission, called Operation Linesman.

It was while standing in Korea's Demilitarised Zone that she finally had the chance to ask her grandparents about their experiences.

"It was just unspoken of," Joonhee said.

"None of my parents heard any of these war stories, it was just unspoken of because they didn't want to share their sorrowful history."

Now Joonhee is playing a major role in helping recover some of that past. 

Working alongside two other Australian defence personnel — leading aircraftsman Ben Whitfield from the Royal Australian Air Force and petty officer Jason Wilson from the Royal Australian Navy – the trio are charged with upholding the delicate armistice, signed at the end of the Korean War, and enforced by United Nations Command.

Their work allows South Korean troops to enter the Demilitarised Zone to retrieve the bodies of fallen soldiers. But it's incredibly risky.

Landmines and other unexploded ordnances litter the ground and need to be carefully removed to allow the work to continue.

"We primarily make sure everyone operating within the demilitarised zone, operates safely, in a manner where they can go home afterwards," Whitfield explained.

"There are rules you have to follow. These rules cover everything from wearing the proper identification, to the way you can operate.

"[The armistice] also limits what types of things you can bring into the demilitarised zone, such as weapons."

A deal was struck to recover lost soldiers

After the defeat of Imperial Japan in World War II, the Korean peninsula was split into two camps: the north, overseen by the Soviet Union, and the south, supported by the United States.

After a heavy build-up of troops, the North Korean People's Army launched a massive surprise attack against South Korea, storming across the 38th parallel, which divided the two sides.

The United States and its allies, including Australia, sent in troops to help a beleaguered south, while China sent its soldiers to fight for the north.

The conflict's momentum changed many times, but the two forces ended up back on their respective side of the 38th parallel.

Australia nominated to create Operation Linesman after the two Koreas struck a deal in 2018 that would allow troops to go into the Demilitarised Zone for remains recovery and repatriation.

All three Australian defence personnel are rotated after about five months.

"I do know the history, from lessons and classes," Joonhee said.

"But to stand on the ground, where all it happened, I can contribute to the soldiers getting back home, is very meaningful and valuable to me."

In the few years of remains recovery, at least 475 bodies have been recovered.

Many South Korean and allied soldiers who perished are still wearing dog tags, making identification relatively easy. The south and its allies also had decent records of those who fought.

But sometimes specialist detective work is required.

During the final battles, South Korean and allied soldiers were dug into trenches, as they repelled final attacks from the north and China.

This means where the body is found, above ground or in a trench, may indicate which side the soldier fought for.

Often, DNA tests are required to identify the soldier and link them to a family.

"We need to ensure we remember that their sacrifice and their service has not been forgotten," Joonhee said.

"People came from all over the globe to fight for peace.

"They have to go back to their home."

Why are recovery efforts so important to families?

One of the most recent recoveries is Kim Young-hwan's eldest brother, Kim Il-soo.

He was only five when Kim Il-soo was marched off to war.

Young-hwan said his brother was too young to be enlisted, but local officials sent him anyway.

Sometime later, the family received a notice saying his brother was missing in action.

"Whenever my mum went up and down the field, she cried calling my brother's name," he said.

Young-hwan's parents died never knowing where their little boy perished.

But this year, Young-hwan was given the news he never expected. His brother had been found.

Officials had matched his DNA he provided some three years earlier with the remains uncovered.

A few precious possessions were also retrieved, including a metal spoon and belt. 

Now, the cremated remains of Kim Il-soo are on display at the National Cemetery Charnel in Seoul.

"I can come here once a year and say hello to my brother until I die," Young-hwan said.

Despite getting closure, Young-hwan said his heart is heavy knowing many others remain unaccounted-for.

"Those who can't find them will be heartbroken," he said.

A long road to reuniting bodies with loved ones

With some 10,000 bodies strewn across the Demilitarised Zone, finding all those lost in the Korean War will be impossible.

The South Korean remains recovery team is focused on battle sites where the greatest number of remains can be found within a confined area.

Currently, they are at the site of the Battle of White Horse, where South Korean, French, and American troops fought against Chinese soldiers.

Despite the fact Australia wasn't part of this specific battle, petty officer Jason Wilson still feels a personal connection.

"They were our friends, our allies," he said.

"I feel somewhat connected here due to the fact we still have 42 Australians remaining on the Korean peninsula MIA.

"Even though we may not be able to recover them, being part of this project is somewhat fulfilling."

The Australian connection is something that Kim Young-hwan appreciates.

"Koreans had no choice but to join the battle," he said.

"But I am very grateful for soldiers who came to Korea from abroad. It's so sad and heartbreaking that they died here.

"I want to say thank you to Australia for saving our country during the Korean war."

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