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The Independent UK

Tamara Davison

Hoshinoya, Tokyo, hotel review

Tokyo Japan Luxury

The Hoshinoya Tokyo is a one-of-a-kind ryokan high-rise that invites you to leave the chaos of Japan’s capital at the door. Slip off your shoes and step into a spectacularly soothing hotel experience where luxury Japanese hospitality is reimagined for the modern traveller.

Location

The Hoshinoya is a sanctuary among the skyscrapers of Japan’s CBD, which has its benefits despite not being the go-to tourist location. Forget the bustle of Shinjuku and enjoy a more central part of Chiyoda closer to the Imperial Palace and its national gardens. The area is incredibly well-connected through Tokyo’s underground network, so getting around isn’t a problem. It’s also a short walk from Tokyo’s central train station, where most Shinkansen (bullet train) services arrive.

The vibe

Hoshinoya Tokyo has a dreamlike quality (HOSHINOYA Tokyo)

The Hoshinoya combines elevated Zen with modern sophistication and ryokan charm. You’ll quickly realise why it was ranked among the world’s best hotels from the moment you take your shoes off (required at the entrance). Soaring some 17 floors above Japan’s busiest city, the intentionally intimate design gives a sense of escapism and a dreamlike “Lost in Translation” feel of floating above Tokyo. The thoughtful layout adds a unique touch: there are six rooms across each floor, with access to cosy communal tea areas. That said, I rarely saw other guests, as the hotel appeals more to those seeking quiet luxury rather than social interactions.

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Service

The Hoshinoya goes beyond the impossibly high bar set for service across Japan’s premium hotels — and it’s fantastic. Think bows when you leave, greetings and conversation exactly when needed, and an all-around friendly yet respectable vibe that feels deeply personal. Staff give off a certain serenity in how they approach guests, which I suspect is designed to pull you even further out of frantic Tokyo and more into the Hoshinoya realm.

Bed and bath

Rooms at Hoshinoya Tokyo have a traditional ryokan design (HOSHINOYA Tokyo)

The Hoshinoya boasts 82 rooms, including the standard Yuri and Sakura rooms and the larger Kiku suites (which, if you can splash the cash, is worth it due to the wow factor). Each beautiful room features a blend of minimalist and traditional ryokan touches, including traditional shoji window dividers and tatami floors. There’s also a separate bath and shower stacked with quality products, and the wardrobes include pyjama sets and yukata garments to wear around the hotel.

The hotel also encompasses traditional Japanese living, so everything is quite close to the floor. The incredibly comfortable low-profile bed and seating arrangements honour the cultural practice of floor-based living — but might be tricky if you struggle with mobility.

Read more: The Palace Hotel, Tokyo review

Food and drink

Nippon cuisine at HOSHINOYA Tokyo (HOSHINOYA Tokyo)

The Hoshinoya’s dining experience is out of this world. Unlike other hotels that put restaurants on the top floor, here it’s underground. Set in a stone-walled subterranean space and divided among several private dining areas, this cave-like conceptual dining experience means you have few distractions from the flavours of the food.

The Nippon menu takes you on a journey through the flavours of Japan with an exquisite 11-course series of seasonal dishes consisting of elevated local cuisine. Extra credit to the staff who kindly explained each dish and the significance of each ingredient. As for breakfast, expect an abundance of feel-good Japanese bento box dishes.

You can’t leave the Hoshinoya without also trying Sushi Otemon, where skilled sushi masters make Edomae sushi during a carefully thought-out culinary journey. Sitting at the intimate sushi bar and learning about this craft from the chef himself was a standout moment.

Facilities

Hoshinoya Tokyo has a hot spring with an open roof (HOSHINOYA Tokyo)

The Hoshinoya’s pièce de résistance is a spectacular onsen (public bath) on the top floor. Separated by gender, the luxurious experience features natural hot spring water pumped from the ground below the hotel. It’s also open-roofed, offering visitors a little slice of the Tokyo sky above. As far as private onsens go, this one is truly excellent — and the handy information booklet on how to use the facilities was a great touch.

Don’t expect a gym or bar here; instead, switch off in the steamy onsen before indulging in a luxury spa experience. Or, book in one of the activities, like traditional kenjutsu practice on the rooftop of a neighbouring building.