It is well known that early man developed a larger brain thanks to the consumption of energy-rich foods. But while the collective scientific finger has long pointed to meat as the primary source of this all-important brain-fuel, honey may have been just as crucial.
Ready-made, easy-to-digest and rich in glucose, this sticky fragrant delicacy is widely believed to have been an integral source of energy for many of the Earth’s earliest civilisations – proof of which can be found in ancient honey-collecting illustrations around the world. Indeed, the oldest illustration of honey being gathered, found inside a cave in eastern Spain, is 15,000 years old. This legacy can still be seen today; honey is believed to constitute 15% of the diet of the Hadza of Tanzania, and a remarkable 80% of the calorie intake of the Congo’s Efe pygmy population.
Sales soar
But honey isn’t just a good source of energy. In the UK - a country not exactly short on calories - sales of honey are predicted to reach £160 million by 2018, a growth of over 30%, according to research agency Canadean. The Honey Association, meanwhile, estimates that Britain gets through over 30,000 tonnes of honey annually. This is some quantity given that honeybees must gather nectar from 2 million flowers to make just one pound of honey and the average honeybee will make only one-twelfth of a teaspoon of honey in its lifetime.
This infatuation with all things honey has long been put down to its nutritional qualities. Almost all honey contains hydrogen peroxide, which has antibacterial properties; one of the reasons humans use it to treat wounds. Manuka honey (produced in New Zealand from the nectar of the manuka tree) also contains significant levels of methylglyoxal, a more powerful antibacterial component that is less affected by heat, light, acidity, moisture and oxygen. Manuka honey is widely recognised and bought for its perceived health benefits, derived from these antibacterial properties.
But the real driving force behind ever-increasing honey sales must surely be its flavour. With the majority of honey now being imported into Britain, to satisfy an ever-increasing demand, consumers have never had more varieties at their disposal. Rowse Honey, for example - one of the UK’s leading honey producers - now has more than 20 varieties from 13 different countries (including England), all boasting their own “terroir”.
Much like wine – and many of the world’s most celebrated delicacies - honey is a product of its environment. In the case of honey, this comes down to the flower species from which the bees gather their all-important nectar. Rowse’s Australian blend, for example, is rich and full-bodied, with hints of toffee and sundried vine fruits, making it ideal as a sticky meat marinade. As for Rowse’s Orange Blossom honey, this famously light and citrusy spread is a great accompaniment to everything from madeleine cakes to vibrant vinaigrettes. Rowse’s Greek honey, meanwhile, is herbal and earthy with notes of liquorice and molasses – delicious combined with figs, dates and a dollop of natural Greek yoghurt.
It’s no wonder some of Britain’s most talked about restaurants are using it in their dishes. At James Lowe’s much-lauded East End restaurant, Lyle’s, London honey is served on sourdough bread with goat’s cheese, toasted hazelnuts and a few drops of vinegar – one of the restaurant’s most talked about dishes; while Tom Sellers at Restaurant Story wowed diners with honeycomb served with whey-soaked oats.
But whatever exciting dishes are concocted, for many nothing will ever top the simple joy of honey on toast, whether at breakfast or in mid-afternoon. In the final line of Rupert Brooke’s wistful paean to a perfect England, the 1912 poem The Old Vicarage, Grantchester, he asks: “Is there honey still for tea?” A century later, the nation answers a resounding yes.
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