If you’re planning on picking up one of the Holy Donut’s signature fried confections, be sure to arrive early. By the time the sun creeps over the horizon, queues have already formed at the shop’s two branches and by midday, hordes of devoted locals have snapped up most of the selection. With a roster of gourmet flavours including chai-glazed, maple-bacon and dark chocolate-sea salt, it’s no wonder the place has developed a cult following since opening its first shop in Portland, Maine, in 2012.
Though these fritters contain top-notch ingredients such as Belgian Callebaut chocolate, what sets them apart from other breakfast fare is something far more humble: Maine potatoes. Founder Leigh Kellis stumbled across the idea five years ago when she was “craving donuts intensely”. Unable to find any that met her standards, she set out to create her own.
“Maine is known for its potatoes, and a friend suggested I try adding mashed potato in my donut recipe.” A first attempt based on an recipe from go-to US cookbook Joy of Cooking by Irma Rombauer resulted in a confection with a gutsier character than Krispy Kremes. Further tinkering led to variations including tasty gluten-free and vegan options, which she began frying in her apartment and selling to local coffee shops.
Today, the business churns out more than a million hand-cut guilty pleasures a year. Mashed spuds or roasted sweet potatoes add moisture and make for a hearty, golden crumb capable of standing up to bold toppings. They would also keep the donuts fresh for days – if any of them lasted that long.
• 194 Park Avenue, theholydonut.com
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