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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel

Henry Holland's guide to Sydney: 5am wake-ups, daily swims and martinis

Designer Henry Holland has been visiting Sydney for two decades and the healthy lifestyle, perfect cocktails and chic shops keep him coming back. Here’s his insider guide to New South Wales’s capital.

Where is your favourite destination and why?

Sydney, Australia. I fell in love with the city when I first went there for work almost 20 years ago. I met so many people who I consider friends for life. They keep me coming back as much as the amazing scenery does. One day, I would love to live there, just to experience it fully. The outdoor lifestyle appeals to me more and more as I screech towards my fifth decade!

When was the last time you were there, and who were you with?

April last year, when I went to launch my ceramics with a store called Jardan. We hosted a lovely event, then went out for Mexican food and ended the night singing karaoke! It was one of my shortest trips at just 36 hours, but I felt at home as soon as I landed.

(Henry Holland Studio)

Where do you like to stay there?

Ace Hotel, which sits on the edge of Darlinghurst and has some truly amazing interiors, including ceramics in the lobby by Ramesh Mario Nithiyendran. He creates these otherworldly, monster-like figures that are fascinating. The bar can get lively on weekends, so if you value your sleep like I do, ask for a room on a higher floor to avoid any noise!

What has been your favourite meal there?

A lunch we had at Bert’s Bar and Brasserie on the Northern Beaches. It’s an amazing restaurant and we arrived by water taxi from Killcare, where we’d been staying with friends about an hour and a half outside of Sydney. The journey and the setting were just perfect — almost as good as the lobster and martinis … from what I can remember.

Read more: The laid-back way to see Sydney

What are your top three restaurants?

Icebergs is an institution, perched above the world’s most photographed salt-water swimming pool — yes, that one. It always has an incredible atmosphere, delicious food and views across Bondi Beach that are awe-inspiring. Every year, they throw a legendary New Year’s Day party there, and it’s absolutely wild. Sean’s Panorama is a charming little spot at North Bondi. It has loads of eclectic ceramics covering the walls and the food is amazing. Order the chef’s choice. And Hubert, in the city, has a wonderfully old-school vibe and is the perfect place for a burger and a martini. It’s got a sort of J Sheekey feel to it, but with its own distinct atmosphere.

(Icebergs Dining Room and Bar)

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

I’d get up early — as everyone in Sydney seems to — by 5am. Then I’d head to Camp Cove for a sunrise swim. It’s a tiny little beach in an exclusive part of town with a great coffee hut right on the sand. Then I’d walk the Bondi to Bronte coastal path, have lunch at Totti’s and go for a swim in the Bronte pool — a more casual alternative to Icebergs. In the afternoon, I’d mooch around the shops in Paddington and maybe head into the city to visit the Powerhouse Museum. The last time I was there, they had an incredible ceramics exhibition and I discovered the work of

Ebony Russell who creates these amazing pieces that look like piped icing. In the evening, I’d grab a margarita slushie from The Nielsen and relax on the steps at Shark Beach. A day full of swimming, eating and drinking — just the way I like it.

Nothing says I’ve arrived in Sydney quite like a run past the iconic Opera House

What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?

If you have a car, drive about an hour north to Whale Beach and take a walk along the cliffs. At the right time of year (May to November) you can spot them, and there are often hundreds of wild kangaroos just hanging out along the cliffs. It’s a magical place.

Where do you like to let your hair loose?

Bar Freda’s at The Abercrombie is the place to go if you want to dance and be seen. Have dinner downstairs first, then head up to the bar for a proper night out.

Who do you call to have a good time?

I’m always there to see my friends Hamish and Trent, and for a late night, I’ll always call my friends Mikey and Pip to join us for a dance.

(P Johnson)

Favourite shop?

P Johnson in Paddington is a beautiful menswear store. They have their own line of tailoring and shirting, which is fantastic.

The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?

On my first trip to Sydney I discovered bottled Berocca. A capsule is suspended in the lid — when you open the bottle, it pierces a foil seal on the underside and it drops into the water. To me, that’s an incredible piece of engineering. Their slogan is “Twist, Plop, Fizz.” I’m obsessed.

Your favourite beauty spot?

On the cliffs above Tamarama Beach watching the surfers. Sydney is full of incredible beaches, one after another, but walking along the cliffs from Bondi through Tamarama and on to Bronte gives you some of the very best views.

Sydneysiders cool off at Tamarama Beach (Getty Images)

Building you would like to live in?

Pretty much any of the mansions in Camp Cove would do it!

Your packing essential?

Workout clothes and swimming gear. I was never very keen on swimming in the sea until I spent more time in Sydney, where it’s practically a daily ritual.

Dress code for the destination?

Whatever time of year I go, it always feels hot. Even when the locals are complaining it’s winter, I’m in shorts — with all the swimming in the sea, it’s all about packing your best beach outfits. Though people in Sydney do love to dress up, so you need a few good evening looks.

Do you have a top wellness tip for the area?

The lifestyle in Sydney is all about the outdoors and staying fit and healthy. At 5am, the beaches are already filled with people working out. If you’re staying at Bondi, try running from one end of the beach to the other in the soft sand like a true local. When I used to stay in Darlinghurst, I loved running down to the port, through the Botanical Gardens, around to the Opera House and back. It was the perfect way to stave off jet lag and get acclimatised — and nothing says I’ve arrived in Sydney quite like a run past that iconic building.

Do you exercise when travelling?

If I’m staying with friends, I’ll join them for Pilates. Everyone in Sydney seems to have a trainer, so I just pull a Bridesmaids move and hide behind a tree to copy their every move!

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