As Clarins' senior regional trainer, Karen Kee has to elucidate perplexing science behind the development of skincare products.
Declining skin function boils down to a communication breakdown, Kee said of a recent scientific discovery that inspired the eighth generation of the Double Serum launched last month.
"Clarins Laboratories identified a cellular listening system that are like "ears" in helping cells "hear" messages from the environment," explained the Singapore-based Kee. "Ageing affects this 'listening' ability, and when cells don't hear as well, they don't effectively respond thereby disrupting skin function. It's like when you call someone, who can't hear and doesn't react."
Since its debut in 1985, Clarins' iconic serum has constantly been revised based on new scientific findings and technologies while updating the cocktail of botanical ingredients.
The 2017 rework takes on 21 active ingredients starring turmeric extract.
A versatile herb used in cooking and Ayurvedic medicine, turmeric long has a reputation for its health and beauty benefits, verified by scientific studies of key compounds such as curcumin, which gives the spice its yellow colour.
The French cosmetics company, however, was less interested in harnessing curcumin's anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative properties and looked for other phytochemicals.
Recent studies on compounds from the volatile oil of turmeric's rhizome have demonstrated promising therapeutic properties.
Likewise, aromatic turmerone was identified as a potential cosmetic ingredient by Clarins because it promotes growth as well as offering alerts to danger through cellular listening in plant communication.
Sourced from India, turmeric extract with a 65% concentration of turmerone are used for Double Serum's reinvention, whose other new ingredients include regenerative red jania, oxygenating goji berry, hydrating marsh samphire and protective ginger lily.
"Skin's youth and beauty depends on five vital functions: regeneration, oxygenation, nutrition, hydration and protection," said Kee. "To address these skin needs, the oil- and water-based ingredients are freshly mixed only upon application, thanks to the bottle's double pump system."
The original serum was introduced as a duo -- one bottle containing water-soluble ingredients and the other oil-soluble ingredients. When applied together, the formulas aimed to mimic the nature of the skin's protective hydrolipidic layer.
Since 1996, the separate packaging has been replaced with a double-vial bottle, firstly housing the fourth-generation serum.
The bottle has now been redesigned with a precise delivery system allowing dispensing a small or a big drop of the upgraded serum according to the need of skin types and climatic changes.
"The new formula and bottle were developed, also based on listening to women's needs," Kee said. "With a 100% vegetable oil base, the lightweight serum is easily absorbed into the skin -- its fresh matte texture well-appreciated among women living in a humid climate."
Serums are a beauty staple since they deliver concentrated skin-nourishing ingredients whereas moisturisers go on top to seal them in.
An age group has not been assigned for Double Serum users, Kee noted, but hitting the 20s, it's never too young to include an anti-ageing serum in the skincare routine.
"Younger women need to think about how environmental factors and stressful lifestyles can cause premature ageing," she said. "Later in life, they will be thankful for preventive skincare such as through using serums and sunscreen that help delay the coming of wrinkles and other signs of ageing."
