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Manchester Evening News
Manchester Evening News
Entertainment
Alexandra Rucki

'Hearty and satisfying': Sunday roast at the Con Club, Altrincham, reviewed

Altrincham has undergone rapid transformation into a top foodie destination in recent years, largely down to the success of the Market Hall.

A number of restaurants and bars sprang up in the vicinity as a result. The Con Club is one of these venues, opening two years ago, directly opposite Altrincham Market in the former Conservative Working Men's Club building.

It's the brainchild of David Vanderhook, owner of The George Charles in Didsbury and Lime Bar in Salford Quays.

Inside The Con Club is a vast and roomy space with a warehouse-chic interior made up of whitewashed walls, exposed brickwork, large seating booths and an open kitchen.

A mixture of cheesy 80s pop and soul music plays out to diners, but not so loud you can't have a conversation.

The venue is divided into a large restaurant area and a smaller bar area. Despite its sheer size, the restaurant fills up quickly with couples and large groups of families so booking in advance is probably a good idea.

What's cooking?

Roast dinners are served from 12pm "til served out". Roast chicken, beef and lamb are all on the Sunday roast menu at £14.50.

There's also a vegetarian option which also costs £14.50. It does not explain what veggies will be getting on the menu, but a staff member informs me they usually serve a 'beetroot and grains style pudding' instead of meat.

We opt for a plate of the lamb and the beef. The beef comes served rare as requested with a pink middle, while the lamb is tender and full of flavour.

If you are not in the mood for a roast, sushi, salads and mains such as fish and chips or beef sarnies are also available. 

Little ones can order from the kids' menu. A children's roast with the same options as grown ups costs £7, while fish and chips, chicken goujons or Mac and cheese come priced at £6.50.

Show me the trimmings

Each Sunday lunch comes served with roast potatoes, cauliflower cheese, a scoop of carrot and swede mash, cabbage, broccoli and a Yorkshire pudding included in the price, and little pots of horseradish and mint sauce on request.

Three huge roasties arrive on each plate and are just the right level of crisp while the middle melts in your mouth. The portions are generous and they don't skimp on the greens either - a huge mound of the seasonal greens is piled up on the side of the plate.

They're stingier with the gravy, to a plate-drowner like me. Nobody wants a dry Yorkshire.

Can I get a decent pint?

 

Did I mention there is a microbrewery on site? Next to the entrance of the restaurant there are large copper tanks where The Con Club brews its owns beers.

There are a range of homemade brews available and we decided to sample one of their own amber ales (£4.40). It tastes malty with a hint of citrus and is not too heavy.

They also have a rotating cask list and we selected a pint of Cheshire Cat from those on offer (£4.40), a blonde ale, which washed down well with the roast.

Angelo Poretti, Guinness, Shindigger West Coast IPA and Con Club Pilsner are some of the beers on draught costing around £4.80 for a pint.

For wine drinkers white, red, rose and fizz are served by the glass or bottle with prices starting at £18 for a bottle. Martinis, mojitos and Bloody Marys make up the extensive cocktail list costing around £9.

There is also a long list of gins, rums, whiskys and even sake to sup on.

For those off the booze there are smoothies, soft drinks and coffees on the non-alcoholic menu.

Should I save room for pudding?

 

If you can because they are not exactly light.

Buttermilk panna cotta (£7), strawberry and raspberry Eton mess (£7) or chocolate lava cake (£7.50) are all on the menu.

Those with a very sweet tooth could share the profiteroles (£12) which come with brownie bites, salted caramel ice-cream, toffee sauce and toasted marshmallows. Tackling this would have been an impossible feat after the roast.

Lighter options include sorbets or ice-creams and a cheese board will set you back £10.

Are you being served?

For such a large restaurant the service does not slide. Even though The Con Club is packed to the rafters the staff are attentive and regularly check if we're enjoying our meal.

It is full table service, although there is the option to order more drinks at the bar, and the friendly staff add to the relaxed dining atmosphere.

The food arrives promptly with barely a wait and the waiter is happy to give lots of extra info about the beers.

What is the damage?

Two roast dinners and two pints set us back £41.50, with the bill including a £3.70 service charge.

The verdict

A place serving both sushi and roast dinners makes you wonder if The Con Club are going for crowd-pleasing rather than the quality of the food.

But the roast is of good quality with no pretension - just a hearty and satisfying meal.

Everybody is going to find something on the menu they like at The Con Club - and the food will be up to scratch too.

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