Roy Sakuma placed the tips of my fingers on the strings of his ukulele. My only lesson from the master of the instrument on my first day in the Hawaiian Islands. He taught me a simple Hawaiian tune, as we sat together in the soaring, sun-drenched lobby of the Four Seasons Resort in Ko Olina, Oahu.
I had flown across the Pacific the day before to begin my 12-day Extraordinary Experience stay at a quartet of Four Seasons Resorts on the islands of Oahu, Maui, Hawaii (Big Island) and Lanai. Sakuma seemed to be the perfect person to initiate my foray into their rich cultural life. He told me that in 1879 immigrants from Portugal arrived with a small guitarlike instrument. Because the fingers flitted from fret to fret it was named ukulele, which means "jumping flea" in Hawaiian. Even though I instinctively knew that I was not destined for Carnegie Hall, it was heartening to learn that the celebrated teacher might encourage young visitors of the Four Seasons Resort to aspire to that hallowed stage, where Sakuma performed a few years ago, or just enjoy the musical moment as I did. Sakuma's class is one of the Four Seasons #FSWAYFINDERS weekly series of workshops in the Hawaiian art, culture and history.
I bid Sakuma "Mahalo" (thank you) and returned to my suite with its two spacious balconies perched on the 14th floor high above the glistening Pacific. It was so comfortable that I was reluctant to leave, but the adult-only 37.5-meter long infinity pool was beckoning. The heated water encouraged long swims and lingering looks at the breaching whales, and from my private poolside cabana a perfect view of the seemingly digitally enhanced sunset.
Unlike the bustle of the Waikiki side of the island, the 2-year-old Four Seasons resides on the west coast of Oahu, the choice retreat for the former Hawaiian royalty who christened it Ko Olina meaning "Place of Joy." Three hundred seventy rooms and suites showcase a sophisticated use of traditional Hawaiian woods and fabrics, including the outstanding Penthouse and President's Suite. All are well served by the 750 staff who graciously attend to the quests at three main restaurants, three pools, a sprawling spa with its rooftop tennis courts and a myriad of marine activities. Long racing canoes whizz by, forever a tribute to the Polynesians, the first inhabitants of these islands, who braved the journey from the South Pacific guided only by the stars. The centerpiece of the lobby is an impressive specimen (41 feet by 4 feet) hewed from one Koa tree and that belonged to Prince Kuhio at the dawn of the 20th century.
My 21st century appetite was well served by the inventive chefs who created original dishes including multiple riffs on poke, the raw fish salad that has become a Hawaiian trademark. The Sunday brunch was an eye-popping affair with mounds of fresh shellfish just plucked from the sea as a sushi chef sliced into fresh Japanese tuna wielding his knife as expertly as a Samurai warrior; smooth as silk papayas and King pineapples; a mixture of Asian food and American, low fat and high.
But I must admit that my culinary experience soared with the new chef of La Hiki Kitchen, Simeon Hall, who hails from the Bahamas. He is, without a doubt, an artist. For my last dinner at Four Seasons Ko Olina he presented me with a four-course sampling of a future menu he was planning. Lucky future quests!
The next morning, with my lei made from 41 white orchids draped around my neck, I bid "Mahalo" and headed to the airport for my half-hour flight to the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea where I was greeted with "Aloha' and pale pink lei.
It was mating season in Maui. The humpback whales were investing in their future. The surf was up and I was in my kayak, paddling out to sea. Well, with less bravado on my part, as I and three others, were guided by a veteran kayaker associated with the resort's Undersea Adventure Tours. We were hoping to get up close to the mothers and their calves but that was not to be. We did however witness the tail-slapping behavior of a few magnificent mammals and that was thrilling enough. Our "bravery" was rewarded by another Hawaiian specialty _ shaved ice treats from the resort's kiosk near the beach.
The resort reminded me of drawings of vast estates of Roman senators _ imposing, grand, multiple pillars and sculpted garden atriums and lawns. A thousand employees and 383 guestrooms and suites. At 28 years, it is Hawaii's oldest Four Seasons property with a recent multimillion dollar facelift by its owner Michael Dell, founder and CEO of Dell Computer Corp.
Great attention has been paid to children-friendly activities, including their own pool area and a center for arts and crafts. Many of the parents were seeking refuge in the adult Serenity Pool with swim-up-to-the-bar drinks. After a lunch of fresh fish tacos and a sip of the signature Hawaiian drink, Mai Tai, in my spacious private cabana, I strolled down to the golf-green lawn, hoisted myself into a lone hammock and snoozed.
That evening just before the sun retired for the night, I watched four young male surfers with their spirits and shouts of joy higher than the waves, ride them to the beach. Hotel guests and locals cheered them on and perhaps like me, wished they could have joined them in this quintessential Hawaiian sport, which was once that of the Hawaiian royals.
As I returned to prepare for dinner I walked past local artists selling their wares, young adults challenging each other in the game room, and several tony boutiques. Then I heard a haunting sound of a conch shell being blown followed by a man dressed in a traditional Hawaiian skirt running throughout the property lighting poles with his torch. The ancient ceremony of signaling the end of day had begun. Children followed him like a benign Pied Piper, against the backdrop of the setting sun.
Dinner at Wolfgang Puck's Spago was a bittersweet affair: food was fine, but the atmosphere a bit too frenetic for my taste. It felt rather like being at the end of an assembly line with the waiters alighting and leaving almost as quickly as the little birds pecking for food. I had more leisurely meals at both Ferraro's and Duo Steak and Seafood. Spoiler alert, Duo presented its guests with a post dessert, dessert _ a cloud of pink cotton candy presented on a platter.
