Haute couture: the final act

Jean-Paul Gaultier's inspiration was a 'gender-bending matador who's not afraid to show a little skin', according to the Associated Press Photograph: Jacky Naegelen/Reuters

His collection had a sexed-up 1930s Spanish feel Photograph: Jacques Brinon/AP

AP called it his strongest haute couture collection for several seasons ... Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images

Praise which may have gone to his head Photograph: Jacky Naegelen/Reuters

Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli presented their debut collection for Valentino Photograph: Jacques Brinon/AP

The Valentino signatures were present and correct (the little suits had their pert collars, the coats had their swinging hems and jaunty bow fastenings, the dresses had their feathers and gems), said Jess Cartner-Morley Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images

But, she concluded, the clothes had all the energy and joie de vivre of a butterfly set in aspic Photograph: Benoit Tessier/Reuters

On Aura Tout Vu focused on specs ... Photograph: Jacky Naegelen/Reuters

But forgot to cut eyeholes for the models to see out of Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images

A similar forgetfulness is on evidence here: the collars and cuffs are present, but the shirt itself is not Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images

At least this enormous ring is unforgettable Photograph: Jacky Naegelen/Reuters

In a masterful piece of understatement, AP described Josep Font's collection as 'fascinating but not terribly commercial' Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP

So giant surrealist hats aren't flying off the shelves at the moment, then? Photograph: Christophe Ena/AP

Franck Sorbier showed a film during his show. This still reads: 'Haute couture is not what it used to be' Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images

The show featured just one live model, plus the film Photograph: Ian Langsdon/EPA

Elie Saab, beloved of Hollywood A-listers, showed a Japanese-influenced collection Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images