To the list of spiritually-centred Japanese arts, from aikido to ikebana, add bean curd cuisine.
Credit the Mihara family from Saga for creating the perfect prime ingredient from world-wide soy bean sources and the same water that makes the finest sake, since 1961, and Takeshi "Goh" Fukuyama, owner of the best tofu restaurant in Japan, for running with it. Kudos also to 2-Michelin star Gaggan Anand because without him, and partner Tan Raitiemtarn, Bangkok would be none the wiser.
Make no mistake, the state-of-the-tofu-art 16-dish tasting menu served at Mihara Tofuten Bangkok, the world's first tofu omakase restaurant, is culinary poetry.
Moreover, while the wait for a seat at the only other Mihara Tofuten, in Fukuoka, is four months, the queue here remains reasonable. The original Mihara Tofu Factory restaurant was folded and shipped wholesale (senior chefs led by Chef Satoshi, equipment, gorgeous dishes, and design concept) to Bangkok. Equally authentic are the imported surreally creamy tofu and spring water. (Restaurant Manager Yuko is ex-Mandarin Oriental Tokyo).
Décor-wise, the post-industrial perimeter wall opens onto a small Zen garden with the restaurant revealed through glass. The minimalist modern interior comprises an L-shaped wood-topped counter arrayed with white fabric-upholstered chairs, framing the buzzing culinary laboratory behind.
The revelations begin with Mihara's finest tofu milk and a micro dot of yuzu jam you savour after knocking back the nectar.
Next, a three-part appetizer arrives in a whitewood hakata bento box wrapped in a colourful cotton cloth that becomes your napkin. "Super limited" 6 layers Yuba Mille Feuille with Ume Ponzu is mind-blowing, as are sesame mocha tofu, and Yuki Tofu with tiny pots of Okinawa snow salt and Sardinian lemon oil.
Kinu Tofu and edamame fish ball in Zuwai crab soup is rendered a masterpiece by the self-effacing water.
Free-style Tofu Miso and Saga Tomato Gazpacho, Kuruma shrimp and vegies jelly is more edible haiku.
"Highly priced Kinki from Hokkaido" and white asparagus with tofu emulsion and Umemiso is crispy, creamy, and fabulously fishy.
Donburi soup topped with black abalone and Yuba is a taste bud tantalizing culinary potpourri.
Zaru tofu, aged in a bamboo basket, is deep-fried for a thin crust around firm custard, topped with lkura red caviar, and garnished with crispy ginger and diced green vegetables.
Hamaguri clam is buried in Tofu Machi and immersed in truffle oil-infused shiitake mushroom puree. Unbelievable!
DIY Maki offers nori wavers you roll into cones and fill with sea urchin and yuki tofu, adding fresh wasabi and soy sauce to taste.
Fabulous ribeye Kobe beef, mushroom and momen tofu in French onion soup arrives simmering on a brazier.
Chilled Somen noodles in Mihara's signature Tofu Milk Dashi is complemented with the brittle crunch of Sakura shrimp tempura and the mildness of lnari sushi.
Three desserts are served bento-style again: tofu ice cream/seasonal fresh fruit puree; tofu blancmange/ginger jam/espresso shot; pistachio, rum raisin, cacao and matcha flavour chocolate and tofu cream.
Regarding beverages, story-telling sommelier Brendan says: "Taking texture as our primary guide, the program ranges ridiculously smooth unpasteurized sake to nuanced, floral, wild yeast Sauvignon Blanc, and sweet and sour umeshu plum wine."
A digestif of gyokura fresh green tea, brewed in the amazing water, ties things up exquisitely.
16-dish tasting menu: B4900++ (add 2,400++ small, 4,000++ large, beverage pairings)
Seatings: Mon-Sat: 6pm & 9pm downstairs; 6.30pm & 7.45pm upstairs.
Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 5/behind Sathorn City Tower, steps from Chongnonsri BTS, parking at Asia Park Bldg.
Tel 083-655-4245 (13.00-22.00)
Email: resv@miharatofutenbangkok.com
