Life speaks to Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide about the 2019 selection.
Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides. Photo: Pornprom Satrabhaya
Why choose Phuket and Phangnga?
Thailand is a well-known tourist destination and it was an obvious decision to move to the most renowned places outside of Bangkok, which also appeal to a wide international audience. Phuket is very interesting for local produce and culture and we were sure of finding quality there. We were not disappointed.
With everyone so focused on Michelin stars, how do you draw people's attention to the Plates and Bib Gourmand?
A star, by far, is the most visible part of the iceberg, but there is a lot to see under the water. The latest selection has about 72 Bib Gourmands -- very affordable, very authentic meals for less than 1,000 baht. We also include 62 street food restaurants. This is far from the image that we may have [but] it's a reality that Michelin has known for ages. Part of the DNA of the guide is to provide a wider choice of restaurants, from the most exclusive to the most simple, always driven by the quality of the food. Even if a new star makes a lot of buzz, diners will also have a lot of experiences at the places on the Plate or Bib Gourmand list. There is a gap between general perceptions linked to stars and travellers and readers that most of the time use simpler restaurants. You can also find star-quality food in the street food in Thailand. A star should not always be related to exclusive places.
Does this apply to Europe or is this only an Asian view?
It is an important trend. Today, street food is one of the assets of Thailand and is recognised worldwide. Thai food is also very much associated with street food and not just Michelin stars. In all the guides, we care about the local culture and do our best to understand the needs and desires of local diners. It is the same worldwide. Even in Europe, you can find very accessible places. It remains affordable, related to the culture and the relative wealth of the country.
How do you respond to criticism about sponsorship of the guide [by businesses and tourism boards]?
The selections in the guide and the ratings are fully independent of any business. All the inspectors are professional and fully paid for by Michelin. All expenses are paid at the restaurants and, as a business model, we remain fully independent when we rate the restaurants.
How long does the process of granting Michelin stars take?
We scout the market to access local potential and we begin the first selection process, which takes at least 18 months. To establish the first stars we have to ensure the consistency of the restaurants. We keep returning to the same places to make sure they are always good, always at the same level and have the same consistency, which is difficult to achieve.
