Jan. 23--It's Friday afternoon and I'm sitting on the 18th floor of Northwestern Medicine's Lavin Family Pavilion in Streeterville. I'm feeling just fine, thank you, because it's the first day of Chicago Restaurant Week and instead of waiting for the doctor, I'm at GreenRiver (259 E. Erie St., 312-337-0101) watching the sun start to break through the clouds as I enjoy the $22 three-course lunch.
Lunch is a late one, almost 2 p.m., yet people are still dining. The communal table for 18 in front of me has all seats taken, there are others anchored at the dramatically long bar and there are diners over by the windows, chatting in the ever-brightening light.
Almost as bright is my sunny starter, a warming carrot soup. The garnishes are fun. Chives, cut into a miniscule mince, provide a nice shot of green. Fried strips of leek add an appealingly toasty quality to the smooth carrot base.
The Parisian gnocchi, an item also on the regular lunch menu, is my choice for the second course. It comes on a base of pesto, powerful stuff with a garlicky flavor nearly as bold as its green color. The little gnocchi, about the size of bay scallops, are golden brown and almost pillowy light. Their texture is echoed in the plump stems of the equally diminutive trumpet mushrooms strewn about. Ribbons of shishito peppers add fragrance and color.
For dessert, there's a small cup of hot white chocolate and two chocolate chip cookies loaded with chocolate chips. A good ending to a late Friday lunch.
Tribune writers will be filing restaurant reports every day during restaurant week, so please check back. The ninth annual Chicago Restaurant Week runs through Feb. 4. For a list of participants, menus and online reservations, visit eatitupchicago.com.
wdaley@tribune.com
Twitter: @billdaley
