This year marks its 150th anniversary of the Grand Hotel du Lac, an 1868 dowager set along the shores of Lake Geneva in the quiet Swiss city of Vevey. Across the lake are the snowcapped Dents du Midi, the most noteworthy peaks in this part of the French Alps. By day, sailboats tack and forth between countries, while at night, you can see the lights of Evian in the distance. You can imagine exiled royals encamped for months in this hotel, back in the days when royals did such things. Deeply atmospheric, it was the setting for Anita Brookner’s novel, Hotel du Lac.
When my wife and I stayed here two decades ago, it was all faded charm, yet still a romantic delight. The current owners closed the property in 2005 and spent a couple of years restoring it. When we returned in 2008, the hotel had undergone a radical refurbishment, a makeover that rightfully restored the “grand” to its name. The lounges are posh, plush and suitably clubby, the chandeliers sparkle, and the staff exudes the quiet calm of people who know what they are doing. The look is courtesy of Pierre Yves-Rochon, the decorator who did the interiors of the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. The results are nothing short of stunning, and earned the property membership in Relais & Chateaux. It is a grand hotel reborn and 10 years since my last visit, it’s still a stunner.
THE ROOMS: There are 50 rooms, subdued, smart, and elegant in a way that doesn’t call attention to itself. The fabrics, wallpaper and linens are of the finest quality, the bathrooms marble enclaves. You want to touch everything because every surface has been upgraded to a fine standard. They took advantage of the fact that the hotel had great bones, with high ceilings and French doors onto balconies overlooking the lake. The designer managed to mix modern touches with classical references, and it all works. The lakeside view of Lake Geneva and the French Alps is so compelling that a water view room is a must.
BEYOND YOUR ROOM: The Dr. Burgener Switzerland Care & Spa; two restaurants: the Michelin Star-rated fine dining Les Saisons and the more casual La Veranda; and a bar, lounge and the Oriental Lounge.
MORE REASONS TO STAY: Vevey itself. Set on Lake Geneva with a jaw-dropping view of the French Alps, and a backdrop of vineyards, Vevey is one of those places that are usually overlooked as visitors rush somewhere else ( in this case, Lausanne or Montreux, which bookend the city). Vevey has a decidedly civilized, rather 19th century feel, with antique shops, cafes and wine cellars. The Lavaux vineyards, which have a UNESCO designation, are minutes away. There is a great Saturday morning farmers market and flea market on the Place du Marche next to the lake. Here you’ll find antique dealers, Moroccan spice sellers, cheese mongers and a gaggle of children lining up for a turn on the 19th century merry-go-round. That much maligned word, “charming,” describes the town well.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION: The view from the hotel is hypnotic, but step outside and you’re on the lakeside promenade. A 15 minute stroll, which goes past the statue of Charlie Chaplin (he spent his final years in the hills above here, in a home that is now the extraordinary new museum, Chaplin’s World ), brings you to Place du Marche, the heart of the city.
THE WINEGROWER’S FESTIVAL
The Fête des Vignerons, or Winegrowers’ Festival, is held approximately once every 20 years or so in Vevey. Produced and performed by the city residents and surrounding vineyard communities along the shores of Lake Geneva, it’s a remarkable spectacle as well as a social event that brings together a literal cast of thousands featuring local amateur actors, singers, and dancers. The next Fête des Vignerons is planned for July 26 to August 11, 2019.
THE DETAILS: Grand Hotel du Lac, 1, rue d’Italie 1800 Vevey, Switzerland
