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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Allan Jenkins

Gravy training

Inspired by Claire's pumpkin feast and a big bowl of home-grown onions, thought we'd share the recipe for the onion gravy we had with sausages after the big dig on Sunday.


Perfectly formed pert onions grown from sets from Fern Verrow

Henri's onion gravy

Essentially a close cousin of our favourite French onion soup. Honestly works best with home-grown crisp juicy onions, but Breton pink are really good, too.

Allow at least one good-sized onion per person, though we usually use twice that. Roughly chop and fry in butter and oil in heavy pan on low heat for longer than you might think. Half an hour is fine. Stir only occasionally. When deeply caramelised (but not black), remove and place to one side.

Also on a low heat fry the best-quality sausages you can afford or find from your local butcher ... with a high meat and (and fat) content, please. When rendered, coloured and crisping up, remove and place on hot plate.

Drain off fat to your own comfort level but retain the crispy, jammy juices. Add flour, about a heaped tablespoon, and stir. Slowly and gradually add water from your floury mashing potatoes (Desiree works well) and any accompanying greens. A generous splash of red wine is good here. So, too, a splash of dark soy sauce and a dusting of Marigold stock to season. When there is enough liquid to swim in each plate, reintroduce onions and heat through.

Serve on your biggest, deepest, whitest plates with sausages, mash and, say, savoy cabbage with leeks. Think back to the summery days you watched your onions growing... and enjoy.

Now: any favourite autumn recipes you care to share?

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