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When considering the fate of an old reading chair of hers, it seemed appropriate to give it a new lease of life, rather than assign it to the scrap heap.
It's a typical mid-century arm chair with a wooden frame, spring seating and cushions. The wood was scratched and worn, the varnish patchy, the cushions disintegrating. Help was needed. I contacted a few furniture refurbishers and the prices quoted were upwards of $1000. New chairs imitating its style were in the same vicinity. It was clear a fair bit of work was involved in restoring it. So, with the help of my parents, I decided to have a go at restoring it myself. I've never embarked on a DIY project, but with the cost of things inching upwards, it seemed prudent to mend what I've already got.
1. Planning
Thanks to the popularity of home improvement shows, there is an abundance of information on restoring furniture. Go to any hardware store or do a quick internet search and there'll be someone out there who's done it before and posted a video about it. While a chair isn't as straightforward as, say, a wooden table, a bit of homework about process, the materials needed and a project timeline was encouraging.
2. Varnish removal
The original varnish was peeling severely. It had to go. Using a water-based stripper, a thick coat was applied and within minutes it was bubbling and lifting off. After an hour to stew, the old varnish was easily wiped and scraped off (very satisfying) before applying a second coat to remove harder to budge remnants. A 500ml bottle was enough.
3. Sanding
When you are restoring wood, the sanding is never ending, so learn to love it. It really does make or break the finish of the wood. Start with a coarser grit and work your way to the finest. I would sand, wipe down the surface with a damp cloth, let it dry and repeat, noticing where the wood still felt furry and needed more attention. Of course you must sand in the direction of the grain, but this can be tricky for rounded edges. I used flat hand blocks, followed by sandpaper wrapped around a round stick for the finer and curved parts.
4. Treating
After all that sanding, you want to the wood to really look beautiful. I decided to go natural, but now would be the time to apply a varnish to protect the wood if you wanted a glossy look. I opted for a Danish oil finish: it protects, slightly darkens, but lets the wood stay natural. A little goes a long way, so use it sparingly, and build up layer upon layer until you achieve the colour you'd like. I went for three coats. Follow the grain and use a small paintbrush to treat those hard-to-access spots. More sanding ensued, but only very light.
5. Fix the frame
The metal seat frame had a few screws loose. With the help of my father-in-law, a new hinge pin was welded to attach the frame to the wood. Some filing and grinding to flatten it back to size, a bit of WD40 on the springs and it was as good as new.
6. Cushions
Always anticipate a few stumbling blocks when you're trying something for the first time. In this instance, it was my knowledge of upholstery that threw a spanner in the works. Choosing style over substance, I selected a beautiful Indian woven cream linen - pretty to look at, but terrible to sew with. New cushions were also needed - the old ones were falling apart before our eyes. Realising my limitations early on, I decided to splurge on the cushion phase and get them made. New cushion foam was cut to size at Clark Rubber and covers made using the linen I purchased. My mother sewed slips for the frame to protect the cushions out of the same material.
7. Finishing touches
A pretty cushion, a sunny position and what's old is new again. It isn't as slick as a professional would have done it, but it will do quite nicely being perched on with a book and a cup of tea. I probably spent between $300-$400, but the time I got to spend working with my parents, learning new skills, and honouring a piece of my grandparents' history is priceless.