Over the past year, creative directors have swapped and traded fashion houses like baseball cards. Most of these designer appointments have been exclusively allocated to men—a disappointing trend that's felt impossible to ignore. But a long-overdue shift is finally taking place, centering woman designers ready to lead. Case in point: Grace Wales Bonner.
The famed menswear designer is branching beyond her namesake brand to the helm of Hermès, where she's set to take over the French label's mens department. Wales Bonner herself has previously expressed her desire to work at a heritage brand, naming Hermès specifically as her "dream" role. Six years later, the 35-year-old creative has finally manifested the position.
In System Magazine's Spring/Summer 2019 issue, the designer spoke about her longterm career goals—namely, her desire to pivot to a historic brand. "I am interested in the idea of an institution and fashion having parameters. A house with heritage is interesting to me, because I am interested in a framework and then disrupting elements of classicism within that," she told the publication.
"A dream of mine would be to work with a tailoring brand, as that is at the core of what I am doing. Maybe a brand like Hermès or even a Savile Row tailoring house," she said. More than half a decade later, this goal has finally become a reality. On Oct. 20, Hermès announced Wales Bonner would succeed Véronique Nichanian, who held the menswear creative director position for 37 years.
The appointment is more than wish fulfillment for the Central Saint Martins graduate. It's history in the making. Wales Bonner, who is of Jamaican-English descent, will be the first Black woman to helm a major European fashion house.
"I am deeply honored to be entrusted with the role of creative director of Hermès men’s ready-to-wear," she said in a statement. "It is a dream realized to embark on this new chapter, following in a lineage of inspired craftspeople and designers."
Wales Bonner has been preparing for this moment since 2014, when she first opened her namesake label. From a constantly sold-out Adidas collaboration to a stint designing pieces for a Dior Resort collection, she's built a reputation for culture-shifting hero pieces and impeccable tailoring.
Grace Wales Bonner's new role comes on the heels of several other woman designers who have recently taken over luxury brands. Last week, Fendi announced Maria Grazia Chiuri would henceforth lead the brand, after nearly a decade at Dior. One month prior, Proenza Schouler announced Rachel Scott of Diotima would replace founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez as creative director.
Here's hoping these appointments aren't just a trend, but a sign of a lasting shift.
