The term “cafe culture” could have been invented for Gothenburg; it may be the country’s second largest city and Scandinavia’s largest seaport, but it has the youthful, easy-going vibe of a boho community. It is welcoming, open, and up for exploring new ideas – particularly over a coffee and a cinnamon bun. Set this against an elegant neoclassical backdrop, pretty canals and a burgeoning foodie scene, and what’s not to like?
Day one
Start your day in Gothenburg with artisan coffee at Da Matteo, named the best cafe in Sweden 2015 by the White Guide, Sweden’s dining bible. Complete with an in-house coffee roaster and sourdough bakery, the baristas behind the counter are experts and will gladly guide you to the perfect brew.
Revived by coffee, head to Stora Saluhallen, Kungstorget. This pretty, barrel-roofed indoor food market has been bustling since the 1880s. A wonderful sensory experience stacked with spices, coffees, cheeses, cured meats, fruits and vegetables, it’s a great place to pick up food for a picnic.
Next make your way to Gothenburg Chocolate and Sweet Factory, Postgatan. Kronhusbodarna, found near the 17th century city hall in one of the oldest parts of the city, and nestled in a cobbled courtyard, is a traditional sweetshop serving unusual and lovingly handmade chocolates: pistachio truffles, Turkish pepper truffles, cranberry and almond brittle. More chocolate awaits a stone’s throw away at Flickorna Kanold, try the Gothenburg speciality – sprinkled with sea salt – or book in for tasting session with its owner Jeanna Kanold.
For lunch head to the Feskekörka, the city’s oldest fish market. While it may look like a Gothic church, the only deities paid homage to here are those freshly caught from the sea (its name translates as “fish church”). Revel in their wonderful varieties and colours, from langoustines and lobsters to oysters and fried herring. Buy fish snacks to take away or dine more heartily at Restaurant Gabriel on the top floor; lemon sole with sautéed mushrooms is their classic dish.
For an afternoon of culture head first to Röhsska Museum, Vasagatan. Taking its inspiration from London’s V&A Museum, this is Sweden’s national museum of fashion, design and decorative art. As well as historical collections, including early-dynasty Chinese arts, its main focus is Swedish design over the past 150 years. Collections are also displayed in the museum’s organic cafe, famous for its lemon meringue tart.
Culture deserves cake so find a table and make yourself comfortable in the Haga district. Sometimes described as “Gothenburg’s Greenwich Village”, this old working-class quarter is a maze of cobbled streets and pastel-coloured wooden houses turned into cool cafes, vintage stores and new-agey boutiques. It’s a great place for fika, the Swedish tradition of a lazy coffee and, usually, a sweet treat such as a cinnamon bun. Try Cafe Husaren for plate-sized buns or alternatively Haga Nygata 26 or nearby Cafe Kringlan. Or take a dip in the art nouveau pool at Haga Badet bathhouse and spa.
For an evening’s eating Gothenburg isn’t just about great food; the city’s cafes and restaurants deliver on style and design, too. Treat yourself to Michelin-starred dining at Koka for Scandinavian flavours packaged creatively, the bar is award-winning too, so make sure to try something from the bartender.
Day two
If you only have time for one museum, make it the Konstmuseum, Gotaplatsen. The stunning art collection covers the European masters; including Reubens, Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Canaletto and Gaugin; 20th century greats, such as Picasso and Munch, and a moody collection of Scandinavian artists such as Carl Larsson and Anders Zorn. Past blockbuster temporary exhibitions have included Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon and Frida Kahlo.
A morning spent basking in the glow of high culture can only be matched with meal of equal refinement, so try the Michelin-starred Sjömagasinet. Located on the waterfront in the old East India Company warehouse from 1775, the dining room offers a rustic and laid-back atmosphere, although the food itself is high-end, and draws heavily on Gothenburg’s famous seafood to fill the menu. If this doesn’t suit your budget or mood try street food Swedish-style instead at Strömmingsluckan, where the fried herring with mashed potatoes is particularly delicious.
Catch a tram to Mariaplan and explore Kungsladugård’s café scene. This cosy neighbourhood has plenty of cafés and shops lining the street on Mariagatan. Don’t miss the organic sourdough bakery Cum Pane, where you can buy some bread to go or get a sweet treat with coffee and sit outside.
Dedicate the rest of the afternoon to cheese and beer. For a tour book a guided walk with the dedicated foodies at Matvandringen or just let your nose - or stomach - guide you. Start at with a tasting session at artisanal cheese producer Hugo Ericsson back at the market hall. The small-scale craft is in focus here and the tradition has been running in the family for generations. Next head to Ölrepubliken, Kronhusgata, which is the perfect place to stop for a brew. Stocking more than 200 speciality beers from Sweden and around the world, this industrial-size bar also offers a beer tasting that takes you on a world tour but you can also sample beers from the nearby Ocean and Dugges breweries.
Finish your Gothenburg adventure on a glamorous note at Atelier. Located inside cosy boutique Hotel Pigalle, the welcoming restaurant has the air of an extended living room, while the kitchen focuses on modern west Swedish gastronomy. The menu is seasonal, but even the bar has an ever-changing cocktail menu.
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