He's done a lot already to burnish the Italian restaurant at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel's illustrious 20-year reputation, but the irrepressible current chef de cuisine in eminent residence, Andrea Buson, seems to feel he's only as good as his last risotto.
Hence, while packing in Italian fine dining aficionados with his dishes that have two editions-running rated Michelin Plate, he's always dreaming up new stuff, just to keep things simmering.
From Monday January 28 to Monday February 11, therefore, Bangkok will get a pre-emptive taste of "Carnival de Venice" (Feb 16-Mar 5), world-famous equally for its enigmatic mask play and hard partying.
With Biscotti bedecked with examples of those always elegant, occasionally eerie visages, Andrea's mouth-watering masquerade of dishes typical of Venice in carnival season leads with "Spaghetti Alla Busera" (1,190++), spaghetti with langoustine, tomato coulis and a pinch of chilli. In Venice, the langoustine is brought to shore in the iconic laguna and, being abundant, pops up all over. Andrea's inspiration is near addictive.
Also inspired by water, "Fritto Misto Alla Veneziana" (690++) fried calamari, prawns, soft shell crab, fish served with veggies. Squeeze a little lemon over and "it's amazing!"
"Maialino Alle Mele" (1,290++) is another Carnival special but with its roots in the rustic cuisine of Veneto farms. Call it "pork belly with cabbage" but Andrea upscales it, cooking the pork with apple and serving with apple sauce and cabbage braised in white wine and vinegar. Oh my!
Indeed, any new dish by Andrea creates buzz but Biscotti's ongoing renaissance remains rooted in his still-unfolding chef's recommendations.
One of the greatest hits is crispy Focaccia pizza filled with mascarpone and drizzled with truffle oil. Simple but guaranteed to break the resistance of even the most avid weight-watcher.
Slow-cooked octopus (690++) is inspired by Venetian street food. It's all about the tenderness of the octopus, here taken to another level with a sous-vide session that also concentrates the flavours. Grilled over charcoal and teased in different taste and texture directions with earthy chickpea puree, creamy shellfish mayonnaise, and lemon zest, one drools.
Tagliolini/Trapanese pesto (620++) is pasta at its most spectacular. Here pesto is not the default Genovese basil, pinenut and Parmesan kind but a magnificent vegetarian mosaic of tomatoes, almonds, basil, Pecorino and olive oil. The pasta is finished in the sauce so it's tightly bound, and simmered with Italian sausage and aged Ricotta for added umami and zing. Regal.
With porcini mushrooms and black winter truffle both in season, they've usurped pancetta and pan-seared foie gras as lead ingredients in Andrea's signature risotto (1,290++). Such aromatic woodiness and pungency, elevated by undertones of al dente aquarello canalori rice cooked in both vegetable and porcini stocks, mated with grana padano, is the biz.
Beef Tenderloin Rossini (1,990++) is similarly exquisite. Australian Angus is preferred over wagyu for being less fatty yet still buttery-tender. With pan-fried foie gras and fresh winter truffle shavings atop the luscious chunks, red wine beef reduction below, and a bale of lightly buttered baby spinach between, more ravishing ways of consuming red meat are unimaginable.
Among the desserts, a reconceptualised tiramisu is the most theatrical. Deftly assembled tableside, the various components feature mascarpone cream infused with CO2 and spurted from a siphon, so that while the final flurry is monumental it melts in the mouth like creamy, caramelly candyfloss.
It was a while since we'd last visited Biscotti and we found it more decorous than we remembered. Plantation blinds and substantial potted plants permitted precious floor space alongside water features, dominated by the large open kitchen command point and chef's table, play a tangibly tropical feel off against modern Milanese chic.
Somehow there're more tables, too, and still it could fill more.
Biscotti offers Express Lunch, from Monday – Friday, with awesome antipasto buffet (845++), or with 1 main (945++) or 1 main and 1 dessert (995++). Cellarage is extensive.
BISCOTTI.
Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, Rajadamri Rd.
biscotti.asia@anantara.com tel. 02 126 8866 Ext. 1214
Lunch 11.30 am – 2.30 pm. Dinner 6.00 pm – 10.30 pm.
