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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Laura Millar

Go slow in Bordeaux: eight unforgettable experiences to have this autumn

Collage of pictures
Diverse adventures await in Bordeaux. Composite: Emilie Soler; A-MO/Ville de Libourne; Teddy Verneuil; Alamy; Getty Images

The beautiful wine region of Bordeaux is well worth exploring at any time of year, but in autumn, it’s particularly atmospheric. As the heat of summer fades away and the vineyards transform into a rich tapestry of colours, make time for its charming villages, medieval towns and historic castles. Here are eight of the best experiences to enjoy.

Explore the future of winemaking at Château Larrivet Haut-Brion

Set in an idyllic location south of Bordeaux, this family run vineyard has made wine since the 19th century. Now, it’s focusing on the future, aiming to create a vineyard which is both environmentally conscious and still true to the identity of its terroir. See how they’re doing it for yourself on a bike ride where you’ll observe their vitiforestry technique – a sustainable farming method that integrates trees and shrubs into vineyards. You’ll also visit the cellars, gardens and vineyard itself, taking a deep dive into the estate’s innovative approach to wine-making. A tasting is, of course, included. larrivethautbrion.fr

  • You can visit the cellars and vineyard of Château Larrivet Haut-Brion, a stone’s throw from Bordeaux; harvested grapes; tending the vines. Photographs: Hemis/Alamy; Alamy

Take an electric bike tour of local producers in the Saint-Émilion countryside

What could be lovelier than pedalling through Saint-Émilion’s captivating countryside on a sunny afternoon, stopping at different vineyards along the way? Take a journey that’s light on effort, thanks to the use of e-bikes, courtesy of Julie and Mathieu, passionate young winemakers who have curated a cycling tour around their favourite local producers. Pack a picnic made up of the best regional products – from cheese and charcuterie to chocolates and macarons – then set off along quiet country roads lined with vines, pausing for lunch in the Unesco world heritage medieval village of Saint-Émilion itself. To round off the day in style, visit the imposing Château La Grande Clotte and enjoy a tasting of the estate’s selection of vintages. lagrandeclotte.com/visite-atelier

  • Take an e-bike tour of producers; park up for a tasting; or take time out to relax. Photographs: Emilie Soler

Enjoy a gastronomic walking tour in Arcachon

Perched around a headland which leads into a beautiful bay, the seaside resort of Arcachon is best known for its oyster cultivation. Take a gourmet walking tour that highlights these and many more of the town’s gastronomic treasures. Local specialities you’re likely to try include caviar, as the bay is also renowned for its sturgeon farms: Caviar Perlita is rated one of the best in the world. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, you’ve come to the right place: indulge in delicious cannelés – a traditional pastry with a caramelised exterior and custard-like interior – delicate macarons and crunchy pralines. You’ll also find great local cheeses and, of course, fine wines. Alongside the eating and drinking you’ll learn about the history of the elegant, Victorian-style seafront villas. arcachon.com/en/

  • Try Arcachon’s famed oysters on a gourmet walking tour; visit the covered market; and try some traditional cannelés. Photograph: MaximFesenko/Getty Images

Dine on the river in Bordeaux

Take to the water for a divine dinner with a difference, aboard the Sicambre, a restaurant boat, which will float you gently down the Garonne past the city’s atmospheric waterfronts. You’ll glide by impressive sights such as the Place de la Bourse, the Pont de Pierre and even the innovatively designed Cité du Vin, which all make for a special backdrop to a delicious meal using some of the best fresh, local ingredients. Menus might include saddle of rabbit stuffed with foie gras, fillet of sea bass, or roast duck, all expertly cooked by the onboard chefs. lesbateauxbordelais.com

  • See Bordeaux from the river by dining on a restaurant boat; glide by the city’s sights; menus might include fillet of sea bass. Photographs: Teddy Verneuil

Go birdwatching near Blaye and Bourg

Attention, birdwatchers! The Terres d’Oiseaux nature reserve, which sits on an area of preserved marshland, is one of the last reed beds in the Gironde estuary. This complex geographical habitat is home to rare birds and is also a shelter for many insects, amphibians and mammals. More than 110 species of birds have been observed here, including reed harriers, herons, storks and marsh snipe. See how many you can spot, either from the observation tower in the main, freely-accessible centre, or from the ticketed area, which offers three different ornithological paths, all lined with observatories equipped with fixed telescopes. You’ll also find a cafe, shop and panoramic restaurant. terresdoiseaux.fr

  • Drop in on the Terres d’Oiseaux nature reserve; birds include the white stork; you can spot birds from the observation tower. Photograph: Getty Images

Attend the Festival of nature, forest and craftsmanship in Médoc (FEFOMM)

This wonderful festival takes place in Carcans-Maubuisson, in the Médoc region. A vibrant celebration of its landscapes, traditions and talents, it’s a great way to learn more about the region’s natural and cultural heritage. Over two days, this charming community comes alive with craft demonstrations, such as the chance to see the century-old mobile steam sawmill in action, and interactive showcases of forestry, farming and eco-tourism. Expect conferences, live shows, sports activities and concerts that make this event as fun as it is educational. medoc-atlantique.com

  • Carcans-Maubuisson plays host to the two-day nature festival; learn more about forestry; and the region’s farming. Photograph: Sylvain Robin/Alamy; Medoc Atlantique Tourisme

Discover Libourne’s street art

Libourne is one of the must-see centres of wine making in northern Gironde, but it’s also a hotbed of street art. Full of colourful and creative murals, the best way to explore them is via a guided walking tour, where you’ll learn more about the town, its history and evolution along the trails. Essentially an open-air museum, the murals bring life to the city walls, with arresting and vibrant works by a variety of local and international street artists. tourisme-libournais.com

  • Libourne is known for its colourful and creative murals. Photographs: Ville de Libourne

Go geocaching in Entre-deux-Mers

Never gone geocaching before? It’s an exciting activity which uses GPS to lead you to geocaches: small, hidden containers containing surprise treasures. At Ez’cales Entre-deux-Mers, download the free Tèrra Aventura app, which takes you on a microadventure, where you’ll discover the fascinating history of wine and its trade during the middle ages in the Entre-deux-Mers region. Unlock new routes, uncover mystery objects, and find the ultimate treasure – as the story unfolds, you’ll navigate the entire Entre-deux-Mers from bastides to medieval towns, searching for objects at emblematic sites. terra-aventura.fr

  • Geocaching takes you on a microadventure to discover the wine trade and outdoor treasures of the Entre-deux-Mers region. Photograph: Daniele Schneider/Getty Images/Photononstop RF; herraez/Getty Images

Bordeaux: where to eat, sleep and visit

Eat …

La Table du Lavoir
This charming and cosy restaurant in Martillac lets you savour hearty and delicious dishes crafted from seasonal produce. It offers you the chance to enjoy refined and creative bistro-style cuisine in a rustic setting.

Sleep …
Domaine de la Peyrine
Reimagined around a 20th-century wine estate just 15 minutes from Bordeaux, this eco-friendly hotel is a haven of calm and sustainability, with seven exceptional rooms and suites.

Don’t miss …
Bordeaux metropole international arts festival
Running from 26 September to 11 October, you’ll find a varied and magical programme of shows, concerts and exhibitions in the region’s natural and urban spaces.

If you’d like to discover more on Bordeaux and why sailing to France with Brittany Ferries is the best way to start your holiday, then visit brittany-ferries.co.uk. Set sail from Portsmouth, Poole or Plymouth and enjoy up to seven days in France from just £206, based on a car and two passengers

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