Born and raised in Dorset, Gill Meller, the 35-year-old group head chef of the industrious River Cottage organisation, now lives on the Dorset/Devon border in a house he built for his family.
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall credits his contributions to tomes such as Veg Every Day!, while Meller gets sole credit for the River Cottage Handbook Pigs & Pork.
Now, as well as teaching River Cottage cookery courses and recipe and menu development, he’s working on a personal project dedicated to the rural surroundings in which he lives and works.
Chronicling a year in these landscapes, Meller’s recipes feed off the cycles of edible bounty each season provides. “Whether in the hedgerow, garden, field or seashore, it changes every day. We are awash with amazing, sustainable, ethical, colourful stuff.”
His heroes are the farmers and producers he’s worked with for years. “My inspiration has always come from the landscape and the people who work in it every day from the crack of dawn, with such drive and passion. They are the backbone of everything we do.
“My food is influenced by what is available – the fruits, vegetables and herbs that grow in and around Dorset – and I treat each ingredient in a respectful, simple way.”
Recipe ideas come quickly and easily. They must, to meet the River Cottage-keeper’s demands. “I work on so many books with Hugh. I’ve become a master of cooking in my head.”
The dishes Meller has created with Green & Black’s reflect the season. With almonds as the key ingredient, he’s created: an almond and Jerusalem artichoke soup; steamed leeks with butter and thyme, strewn with toasted nuts and buttery-crisp rye flakes; and a flourless chocolate and almond cake, scented with Christmassy orange and bay leaves. “Really good and really simple.”
Almond and Jerusalem artichoke soup with kale and pancetta
Jerusalem artichokes and almonds are fantastic partners. I love them roasted together and served as a hearty late autumn salad, or as an accompaniment to grilled squid or sea bass. Here, I’ve taken this great combination in a slightly different direction, by gently cooking the roots and nuts until tender with chicken stock, garlic and thyme, then pureeing to a velvety smooth soup. I love to make a real meal of it by finishing it with tender kale and smoky pancetta or bacon.
Ingredients (serves 4)
- 25g butter
- 1 tsp olive oil, plus a dash for the pancetta
- 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
- 100g whole, blanched almonds
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 500g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled, sliced
- 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
- 800ml good chicken or vegetable stock
- Small bunch of curly kale, about 50g
- 100g smoked pancetta (or bacon lardons)
- 75ml double cream
Method
Heat the butter and oil over a medium heat in a large heavy-based pan. When it bubbles, add the sliced onion and almonds, stirring for 10-12 minutes.
Add the garlic, artichokes and thyme leaves and season with salt and pepper. Stir well, then cook for a further 8-10 minutes. Add stock and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 20-25 minutes, or until the artichokes are tender.
Meanwhile, strip off the kale leaves and bring a medium-sized pan of salted water to the boil. Simmer the kale for 3-5 minutes, or until cooked to your liking, then drain thoroughly and chop roughly.
Set a frying pan over a medium heat and add a dash of oil. Add the pancetta and cook for 4-6 minutes, until it begins to crisp at the edges. Add the kale and toss to combine. Keep warm.
Once the artichokes are tender, purée the soup until smooth. You might need to do this in batches. Return to the pan, stir in the cream, season and heat through. To serve, ladle the soup into warmed bowls, topping with a generous spoonful of kale and bacon.
Follow Gill on Instagram @Gill.meller
