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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Mary Novakovich

Get the lowdown on Toronto, Ontario’s cosmopolitan capital

The Toronto sign in Nathan Phillips Square.
The Toronto sign in Nathan Phillips Square. Photograph: Khristel Stecher

Toronto is always in the mood for a good party. And with its exhilarating blend of cultures, plus a spotlight on film, fashion, sports and arts, there’s always something to celebrate in Canada’s largest city

By Mary Novakovich

For foodies

Walking Toronto’s streets is like stepping into the pages of an atlas. The city’s multicultural mix is everywhere in its colourful neighbourhoods – five Chinatowns, a Greektown, Little Portugal, Little Italy, Little Jamaica, Korea Town, plus numerous other enclaves ranging from Ukrainian to Ethiopian. It all adds up to a restaurant scene that takes variety to a new level.

Overhead view of a dish at Aloette restaurant, Toronto
Aloette restaurant, Toronto. Photograph: Paula Wilson
Interior and bar of Aloette restaurant, Toronto
Aloette restaurant, Toronto. Photograph: Paula Wilson
  • Aloette champions bistro dishes

Cosmopolitan Toronto also does fine dining superbly well, with menus that raid the Canadian larder for Nova Scotia lobster, Newfoundland crab, Prince Edward Island grass-fed beef and maple syrup from Ontario’s very own Lanark County. Try the inventive dishes that mingle Canadian and international flavours at the ONE restaurant at the Hazelton Hotel in swish Yorkville, or sublime plates with a view at Canoe on the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower in the Financial District. Hot new arrivals on the foodie scene include Aloette, run by chef Patrick Kriss, which champions bistro dishes – from Burgundy snails with Puy lentils, to pulled lamb in couscous. And don’t miss the desserts at Bacchanal; pastry chef Cori Osborne produces exquisite treats like Paris-Brest and babas au rhum.

Interior of Junction Craft Brewing,  Toronto.
Junction Craft Brewing, Toronto. Photograph: Steven Evans
  • Junction Craft Brewing

Along with fine-dining restaurants, Toronto is fast becoming known for a more simple pleasure: beer. Whole neighbourhoods have been given a new lease of life thanks to the steady rise of microbreweries – just wander down the streets of the Junction in the west of the city to see how the Indie Ale House and Junction Craft Brewing transformed this former down-at-heel neighbourhood. You’ll be spoiled for choice, too, among the laid-back bars of Ossington Avenue and the burgeoning craft breweries on Geary Avenue in Bloordale.

For culture fans

Toronto’s cultural life is as rich as its restaurant menus. Come in September to catch glimpses of film stars during the Toronto International Film Festival, one of the largest in the world that’s open to the public. In June, the Luminato Festival celebrates Toronto’s creative spirit with 10 days of music, theatre, dance and visual arts events.

Crowd in front of stage at TIFF
The Toronto International Film Festival takes place in September
  • The Toronto International Film Festival takes place in September

There’s a chilled-out, family-friendly atmosphere at the fun Toronto International BuskerFest, which takes over Woodbine Park on the eastern lakeshore in the last few days of August. Photography fans can enjoy the largest photography event in the world during the Scotiabank CONTACT festival in May, when more than 200 exhibitions take place around the city.

Bata Shoe Museum Permanent Exhibition - All About Shoes - Indian Paduka, 18th century
Bata Shoe Museum permanent exhibition - All About Shoes - Indian Paduka, 18th century
Pottery and ceramics at the Gardiner Museum.
Pottery and ceramics at the Gardiner Museum
  • The Bata Shoe Museum; the Gardiner Museum

If your visit doesn’t coincide with any of Toronto’s festivals, however, get your cultural fix at the Royal Ontario Museum, whose exhibits span the globe and go back to prehistoric times. Around the corner is the Gardiner Museum, which showcases artistic ingenuity through the medium of pottery and ceramics. And for the more fashion-focused, the Bata Shoe Museum has a riveting collection of footwear that goes back 4,500 years.

For unforgettable experiences

If standing on the glass floor near the top of the CN Tower isn’t hair raising enough for you, strap yourself into a harness and take the EdgeWalk around the outside of the highest free-standing structure in the western hemisphere. They call it Toronto’s most extreme attraction, and they’re not exaggerating.

EdgeWalk at the CN Tower
EdgeWalk at the CN Tower
  • EdgeWalk at the CN Tower

Come back down to earth gently next door at Ripley’s Aquarium, which turns into an underwater jazz club on the second Friday of each month. There’s more music in store at Casa Loma, a wondrous Gothic fantasy castle built more than a century ago by a rich financier. Its garden is a magical setting for summertime classical concerts.

For an unusual night at the museum, join the dancing at Friday Night Live at the Royal Ontario Museum. While DJs and artists perform, snack at the pop-up food stalls and check out the galleries by night. There’s a similar vibe at the Art Gallery of Ontario’s First Thursdays, with live music and the food-focused Night Market.

When to visit

The city buzzes all year round, thanks to a busy festival calendar that guarantees fun every month. Summer brings some of the city’s biggest outdoor parties, including the Caribbean-inspired Toronto Caribbean Carnival . It’s also the best time to rent a bike and cycle through the enchanting Toronto Islands, which offers great views of the city from tranquil, wooded vantage points and is home to a 200-year-old lighthouse.

Light Festival or Light Fest at the Historic Distillery District. The Talking Head and the Perspective displays.
Distillery District light festival. Photograph: Alamy Stock Photo
  • The Distillery District light festival illuminates the city

During the winter months, the nights become long and the bars and restaurants become cosy nooks perfect for date nights. It’s also when you get the chance to join Torontonians on the dozens of open-air ice-skating rinks that pop up all over the city. The most atmospheric is right in front of the twin-towered City Hall and its giant Toronto sign.

No matter what time of year you visit, Toronto’s red-carpet events, music scene, cultural diversity, fine dining and “always-on” attitude make the Canadian capital worthy of “world-city” status. There are few places on the planet where cosmopolitan cool has become so accessible.

Discover more of Toronto’s longer nights and brighter lights with Canadian Affair.

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