SORRENTO, Italy _ When people think of Italy and romance, most think of the Tuscany region or Rome. But Sorrento and Capri remain for me among the top spots for lovers.
Why? This corner of Campania has a romantic sensibility to sway even the least sentimental visitor. In fact, I guarantee that within hours of your arrival, its playful ancient magic will make you reach for the hand of your loved one and maybe kiss her, too.
Here are 10 ingredients of that magic:
_ Lemons, lemons and more lemons. They hang from trees. Their images decorate plates. They are served with every meal.
Big, plump, bright-yellow Sorrento lemons love growing in this region. In fact, my hotel door opened onto a walkway that curved under a lush, happy canopy of them.
Lemons also are used in the local liqueur, limoncello, which in my experience is an acquired taste.
_ Glamorous views: Sorrento and Capri (pronounced CAPree, not caPREE) boast some of the most gorgeous views in the world. Sorrento hugs the undulating Mediterranean coastline. On Capri, an island 20 minutes by ferry from Sorrento, the views are spectacular everywhere you look. The water is crystal clear and china blue.
_ Shopping: Leather sandals, purses and bags are highlights. Sorrento also has world-famous marquetry (inlaid wood) tables and boxes. Lemony-themed souvenirs abound (a million stores have them, but I like the work at the Sea Gull in Capri Town). Sorrento and Capri both have many streets of shops with twinkling lights perfect for a romantic evening stroll.
_ Winding streets: Nothing here is a straight line or even elevation. In Sorrento, you take an elevator from street level down to beach level. In Capri, you take a funicular up from the port to Capri Town.
In both spots, ultra-narrow streets wind around blind corners and up and down hills to secret spots and views. Many of these winding streets and public squares, naturally, have charming outdoor restaurants and cafes.
_ Fresh fish: I strolled past a fish shop on Capri to find I was being stared at _ by a fish in the window. Fish here practically jump right out of the sea and onto your plate. In Sorrento and Capri, you would definitely go to hell if you even considered eating a frozen fish.
_ Perched hotels: So many hotels in Sorrento and Capri (and their Amalfi Coast neighbors) are directly on the edge of the sea.
That is what has made these places vacation havens for everyone from ancient Greek sailors and Roman emperors to modern artists, writers, movie stars, celebrities and the hoi polloi.
The greatest hotel in the world can't compete with the view that even small hotels here possess.
_ Charming boats: Brightly painted wooden fishing boats mix with larger ferries and even larger cruise ships. Every view has scale, because many boats ply this area of the vast Mediterranean. Here, the sea feels more like a friendly lake instead of an impersonal ocean.
_ The side trips: Nearby are the ruins of Pompeii, a sort of sexy historical place to visit. To the southeast are stunning tiny towns such as Positano, Ravello and Amalfi, where more romance awaits.
_ Brilliant flowers: I was there in May, when roses were blooming their heads off and the air smelled sweet. Colors are vivid, whether it's the sagey green of rosemary or the petal of a deep red rose.
_ It's Italy. I mean, come on, it's Italy. Yes, this country is a slightly jaded, world-weary, seen-it-all, sighing, emotional, spend-too-long-at-the-table kind of place. But it's got a good heart. So pack a bag, bring your lover and enjoy.
