Get On Up, the James Brown biopic, hits cinemas today. Forget about the music and politics for a second, and focus on his look. For me, the film provides a great excuse to study the early- to mid-sixties James Brown, the one who played Live at the Apollo, the one photographed in a kimono at home by Diane Arbus, tended to by an out-of-shot hairdresser. Here are five things that make up my favourite James Brown look.
1. The quiff
The afro became a symbol of his association with civil rights but the quiff looked amazing, too. Bruno Mars, not to mention Janelle Monae, are channeling Brown’s excellent quiff work more than 50 years on. Coiffed and full, rising from the centre of his forehead, it was truly a thing of beauty. No wonder, as Arbus’ picture attests, it needed a hairdresser on hand at all times.
2. The tie
Brown went on to wear full-on jumpsuits, tracksuits, capes and flares but as befitting a man raised in Georgia, he started with the motifs of a Southern gentleman. The tie or bow tie is part of that look but works best when slightly skewed and pulled to the side after a trademark performance of blood, sweat and tears.
3. The short jacket
Brown had performance uniform during this period, which the slightly short, boxy jacket was part of. Sometimes double-breasted, sometimes brocade, and always worn with a bright white shirt, the effect is razor sharp, all the better to take off and fling on the stage.
4. The skinny slacks
A James Brown performance is nothing without the godfather of soul dropping to his knees during Please, Please, Please. Who knows how he did this in trousers so tight they make American Apparel’s Disco Pants look like Boyfriend jeans? Ours not to reason why. Marvel instead.
5. The pointy shoes
Another element of the Southern gentleman styling - smart shoes finish the look. They also, with thin slidy soles, work as a prop for dancing, as seen when Brown taught a bunch of teenagers to dance in 1962 or attempting to do the same with Tonight Show host Johnny Carson in 1967.
