The contrast between Geneva Watch Days, not controlled by a consortium, and the big watch fairs couldn’t be more striking. While the first, which came to a close on Friday, is informal, open to the public, and spread across hotel suites and retail showrooms across the city, the fairs are by invitation. As was Watches and Wonders earlier this year, a star-studded affair including virtual fireside chats with watch CEOs and a social media blitz. The Geneva Watch Days Instagram account, meanwhile, has just one post since the show began. That’s it. But the independents are truly celebrated here, with the announcement about the pre-owned platform WatchBox investing in the Swiss watchmaker, De Bethune, creating a stir on forums and Clubhouse rooms. Meanwhile, here are some brands that made an impact:
Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Capsule
The brand has gone from Bentley to muscle cars, screamed headlines, about Breitling’s Top Time capsule collection. Inspired by classic American sports cars from the 1960s — the Chevrolet Corvette, Shelby Cobra and Ford Mustang — the three new chronographs have a distinctive colour and car logo. In a 44 mm case (the Shelby is 40 mm with calibre 41) they are in limited volume, a good way to keep the interest high. Approx ₹4.1 lakh.
Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer
A nod to international travel picking up soon, the sporty Octo Roma WorldTimer was planned before the pandemic, says Antoine Pin, MD of the brand’s watch division. With a softer and more rounded shape, it has a blue dial, steel case, and a rotating world time disc operated with the crown. With BVL257 calibre and a smaller dial that is neat on the wrist. Approx $8,350.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur collection
Marking the brand’s 175th anniversary, the Marine Torpilleur collection has seven new models with two new movements, complications, chronographs, and enamelled dials. This is a wrist watch with all the codes and mechanics you can find on a marine chronometer. Each piece is numbered, with the moon-face complication (here) having calibre 119, a variation of 118. Approx $8,200-$42,400.
- The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Pink Dial — launched last month and part of The Pink Dial Project, a charity auction to fight breast cancer — deserves mention. With its in-house worldtime complication, it has been assembled by one of the brand’s female watchmakers.
Czapek & Cie Antarctique Rattrapante
This Swiss watchmaker made an impact last year with its luxury sports contender. In the new Rattrapante, the split-seconds chronograph movement is visible from the dial side. With the automatic calibre SXH6, icy steel case and bracelet, it has created a buzz this week. And the limited edition, 77 pieces, has been swiped up for approx CHF 46,000.
GWD was from August 30 till September 3. Read the full story online at weekend.thehindu.com
