This is a rather different kitchen confidential. Set in a dingy basement office, with no windows and only a limp cactus for greenery, Fully Committed gives us a glimpse of the power play and greed for status that lies behind a top Manhattan restaurant. This time it's not the egomaniacal chef - though there is one in situ - but the many callers to the reservation line, manned by Sam, a resting actor.
Naomi Campbell wants an all-vegan menu for 15 and no female waiting staff; Mr Zagat is in the restaurant and there's no table for him; something messy and unspeakable has happened in the toilets; and still the phone rings. Mark Setlock plays Sam and the many callers, switching deftly between personae to bring to life their desperation ("We are two teeny-tiny people") and their faux friendliness ("We're exhausted - we've just come back from Tibet").
Writer Becky Mode's surname couldn't be more apposite: this is a timely, modish comedy about the world revealed by Anthony Bourdain and programmes such as Hell's Kitchen (for London audiences, Ramsay even makes an expletive-studded fleeting appearance via Setlock). It's a fast, light and appetising parody of a world we know to be ludicrous, and to have very little to do with food.
The show may lack substance and it does veer into some slightly schmaltzy material about Sam's family, but on the New York restaurant scene, where both Mode and Setlock have worked, it couldn't be sharper. The best gags are those about who gets a table and why ("I think he invented Velcro"), and Setlock relishes every one of these.
The venue has a restaurant attached. If they tell you it's full, don't try to talk your way in. They'll have heard all the best lines already.
· Until August 29. Box office: 020-7907 7060 .
