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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Johanna Payton

From the ground up

Whether it's the result of an article you've read on animal welfare, a documentary you've seen on the environment or a debate you've had with friends over taste, choosing organic is something many of us now regularly do as part of our weekly shop. Organic food is no longer "niche" – it's an active choice for most of us. Here we talk to Rob Ashwell, 31, a technology PR, and his fiancee, Sarah Pugh, 32, an NHS counsellor advising patients on the potential risks of inherited cancer, about the food choices they make.

Sarah and I were interested in organic food when we met. Sarah grew up around food and worked in professional kitchens throughout her late teens. I did a degree in genetics and, having heard lots of GM arguments, knew that companies were using the technology as an excuse to pour chemicals over fields. I was also concerned about animal welfare in mass food production.

Organic meat and dairy products are staples for us – we don't buy intensively farmed meat, fish or chicken. Although the recession hasn't affected us directly, we've been considering prices more carefully. Lots of own-brand organic supermarket ranges are great value and can be a lot cheaper than some brands. We eat less meat than we used to and stretch it out for a few meals; if we have a roast chicken we use the leftovers for sandwiches or a pasta dish, and the stock for risotto and soup.

In general, organic food tastes better, especially when it's raw. Organic eggs are tastier, and apples, pears, tomatoes and plums are full of flavour. We love Green & Black's chocolate and Sarah's a big organic yoghurt fan. We've seen articles suggesting omega levels are higher in organic milk, but we're more focused on animal welfare, use of antibiotics and taste.

Sarah is a phenomenal cook, but I try to get in the kitchen a few days a week. We shop and eat seasonally, which is easier when you buy organic and shop locally. Going out, we look for restaurants where the food is organic.

Our flat is on the top floor and the public square outside gets packed in the summer. We desperately needed outdoor space and put our names down for an allotment. In August 2008, after an 18-month wait, we finally got one. The allotment changed the way we eat again. Although we shop and eat organically, our weekly food bill is around £40 per week in summer, when our shopping is supplemented by the vegetables we've grown, and £50 in winter. We're not committed enough to spend every weekend getting caked in mud, but the experience of growing our own produce has been wonderful. Our crop of courgettes was great; although eating courgette for what felt like the 2,000th meal in a row did get disheartening. I'm sure our friends got sick of us always trying to offload our surplus vegetables on to them.

Although we never wanted to become "ethical" stereotypes, we do try and act responsibly in as many areas of our lives as possible. I ride my bike from Bristol to Bath every day and although I love cycling, and hate the commute by car or train, I have the environment in mind, too. One of the reasons we chose The Bell at Skenfrith for our wedding reception in June 2010 is that it has an organic kitchen garden. Where food isn't grown organically on the premises, it's sourced locally and ethically.

I feel hypocritical if I drive to the allotment, but I don't want to cross the line where I become too militant. We do what makes sense for us and what we can afford. I do get frustrated when reports suggest that eating organically is no healthier than non-organic food, yet they don't always take into account the welfare of the animals, or the use of fertiliser and pesticides on food.

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