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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Beatrice Aidin

From de-stressing to vitamin C: the route to radiance for oily skin

Horizontal stock portrait of pensive woman posing in sunlight in white studio with shadows from the window
Your skin’s balance is affected by your diet and hormones, and external pressures such as pollution. Photograph: Liliya Rodnikova/Stocksy United

An abundance of sebum, the skin’s naturally occurring protective oil, is a good thing. Without it, hair would have no shine and skin no moisture. But overproduction of sebum leads to shiny, oily skin and, often, blemishes.

On the face, sebum is emitted from sebaceous glands, predominantly in the T-zone, the forehead, nose and chin. You can’t change how your skin operates, but you can manage it. Here’s how to keep your skin looking radiant all year round.

On the inside
Hormones play a starring role in sebum production, and although you can’t always control them, you’re not totally powerless. When you’re stressed, your body produces more adrenaline, which can in turn trigger an overproduction of sebum, resulting in oilier skin that is much more likely to have clogged pores. De-stressing can help combat this. Getting more sleep, nourishing your body with good food and water, and exercising will all help manage adrenaline production.

Glass Of Water With Back Lighting
Good food and the right amount of water help manage adrenaline production. Photograph: Marc Tran/Stocksy United

Then there’s insulin. This important hormone regulates your blood sugar levels, but has the knock-on effect of stimulating sebum production. When you eat sugary and hyperglycemic foods (think white carbs), insulin production increases, boosting sebum production. On the other hand, eating foods high in omega-3 fats – such as oily fish – is important for regulating inflammation and, along with the right skincare, the way to level out sebum production.

On the outside
Research demonstrates that environmental attacks, such as pollution or UV, cause sebum oxidation and cell damage that not only contribute to the signs of ageing, but also increases the number of blemishes in oily skin. So when it comes to skincare, finding a formulation that’s designed to protect you against this damage is key.

After six years in development, and the testing of 196 formulas, SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF serum has been clinically proven to reduce oil oxidation by up to 76%*. There are other key advantages in this breakthrough skincare launch; in clinical studies, scientists found a reduction in fine lines by 25%** when tested on 55 female subjects over the course of eight weeks.

The key to recognising how environmental factors affect the skin is in understanding the prevalence of free radicals: unstable molecules that damage healthy cells. UV rays create them, and they are also found in many air pollutants such as petrol fumes and cigarette smoke. They’re also emitted from screens, and in the home you’ll find them in cleaning materials, cooking fumes and dust.

To neutralise free radicals, research from Dr Sheldon Pinnell, the founder of SkinCeuticals and former professor of dermatology at Duke University in North Carolina, established that antioxidants in skincare could fend off attack. Since then, SkinCeuticals has been the gold standard in antioxidant research and efficacy, and has launched the Silymarin CF, a product that helps to control excessively oily skin and manage blemishes, while providing your skin with radiance.

There are three antioxidants working to fight environmental damage in the Silymarin CF formula. The first is silymarin, derived from milk thistle and making up 0.5% of the formulation. This purifying ingredient is best known for supporting the liver and is a powerful antioxidant when used topically. Its main component, silybin, is considered to have “potent antioxidant properties”, says dermatologist and SkinCeuticals expert Dr Emma Craythorne.

Then, there’s pure L-ascorbic acid, otherwise known as vitamin C. It’s one of the most effective antioxidants in skincare, and makes up 15% of the new serum’s formula. Finally, there’s 0.5% ferulic acid, a plant-based antioxidant. Salicylic acid is a leading player in the serum, too. At 0.5%, it gently exfoliates pores, clearing the dead skin cells, dirt and oil that lead to blemishes.

When it comes to unsightly blemishes, Silymarin CF helps reduce oil oxidation by up to 76%*, controlling oil management and offering anti-ageing properties – it’s undoubtedly a revolution for a skin type that has been overlooked for too long.

Discover the skincare for you with SkinCeuticals’ antioxidant finder

*Clinical study, 35 subjects (China, 2020)
**Clinical study, 55 women (USA, 2019)

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