The French Senate has overwhelmingly approved legislation aimed at regulating the ultra fast-fashion industry. The bill specifically targets Chinese e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu while imposing stricter environmental standards on the rapidly growing sector.
The Senate on Tuesday passed the bill with 337 votes in favour and only one against.
The legislation, which was voted unanimously by France's lower house in March 2024, still has to be approved by a joint commission in the autumn.
The French Minister for ecological transition, Agnes Pannier-Runacher,, called it "a major step in the fight against the economic and environmental impact of fast fashion".
Key provisions
The bill introduces an "eco-score" system that will impose penalties on companies with poor environmental performance. Those receiving the lowest scores face taxes of up to five euros per product in 2025, rising to 10 euros by 2030, with a cap of 50 percent of the product's original price.
Additionally, the legislation would ban fast fashion advertising and impose sanctions on influencers who promote such products.
Companies will be required to inform customers about the environmental impact of their purchases.
It will also introduce a special tax on packages imported from outside the EU and ban free returns.
The Senate's version distinguishes between "ultra" fast fashion and traditional fast fashion, effectively targeting Asian platforms while providing for European brands like Zara, H&M and Kiabi to be treated more leniently.
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Needing to remain vigilant
The modification to the final text has drawn criticism from some environmental groups who argued the original bill was too watered down.
But Jean-François Longeot, chair of the Senate's Committee on regional planning and sustainable development, defended the amendment.
"The clarifications make it possible to target players who ignore environmental, social, and economic realities, notably Shein and Temu, without penalising the European ready-to-wear sector," he said.
France's Textiles Industry Union has called it "a first step" toward comprehensive regulation.
Victoire Satto, founder of The Good Goods – a company that helps the fashion industry to be more sustainable – agrees that it's just a first step, but described the Senate vote as "an historic and very significant moment".
"Of course we have to remain vigilant and make sure that this text is applied and that everything that needs to be controlled is actually controlled," she told RFI. "And we'll have to pay attention to the semantics – about how 'fast fashion' will or will not be impacted by the law.
"We know that this law will not solve everything. Nevertheless, it's already a fabulous door that's been opened," she explained. "I've been working on this issue for over two and a half years now, and I didn't think it would be possible to achieve such momentum so quickly. It's very French not to know how to celebrate. So we have to adopt an optimistic stance."
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'Triple threat'
The fast fashion market has grown significantly in France, with advertised product values increasing from 2.3 billion euros in 2010 to 3.2 billion euros in 2023. According to France's environmental agency Ademe, approximately 48 clothing items per person enter the French market annually, while 35 items are thrown away every second.
Pannier-Runacher has characterised fast fashion as a "triple threat" – promoting overconsumption, causing ecological damage and threatening the French clothing sector. Several French brands, including Jennyfer and NafNaf, have faced major financial difficulties amid competition from ultra-low-priced imports.
The bill still faces legislative hurdles before being enacted into law. A joint committee of senators and MPs will meet from September to approve a joint text, and the European Commission must also be notified to ensure compliance with EU law.
