Do you ever pine for a bowl of pasta as good as you get in Italy as you stare out the window of your Thonglor condo? Then La Dotta (Soi 9)'s right up your street.
The latest evolution in pasta provision in Bangkok is being shaped by dining disruptor couple Choti Leenutaphong and Debby Tang (Vesper, Il Fumo, Via Maris).
Recognising that the passion for pasta is often overwhelming, they've opened La Dotta (a nickname for Bologna, the historic Italian foodie city from whence Bolognese sauce, and cured pork meats like prosciutto and bologna sausage hail) to do away with distractions and fixate on fixes.
Their 02-floor, 38-seat designer pasta palace solution is etched in black on white chequered ceramic tiles, in-house product-stocked whitewood shelves, and Mediterranean sky blue wrought iron stairs.
On the ground level, a marble-topped counter and glass cabinet of fresh pastas separates diners from the chefs led by Luca Capitanio. Under the neon glow of a simple bar on the mezzanine, low-hanging white light orbs illuminate Scandinavian streamlined tables punctuating a wall-long biscuit banquette, and high tables are set with buttoned leather stools.
Holding that fresh is best, several pasta varieties are produced on the premises daily. They do, though, import particularly pernickety dried types.
Besides degrees of "al dente", the biggest differentiator is that the homemade pastas are precisely paired with a particular sauce whereas a couple-three of the dried types are advised for each sauce.
The fresh homemade pasta varieties –Tortelloni, Pappardelle, Garganelli, Tagliatelle, Ravioloni (cooking time approx.5 mins) – are made with Italian flour and organic local duck egg yolks, thicker and tastier than chicken eggs.
The dried varieties – Bucatini, Rigatoni, Linguine, Paccheri and gluten-free options (add 70b, cooking time 12-15 mins) – are all upscale Rummo and Rustichella d'Abruzzo brands.
Never ‘erd of most of ‘em? There's a glossary of silhouettes at the back of the menu. Paper place mats elucidate relevant matters further.
From the 07 non-pasta starters, the cheapest (190), complements deep-fried but dry truffle, sage & ricotta balls with a tartare-like truffle-infused sauce.
Among the 08 fresh pasta dishes, Tortelloni Formaggi (360) is candyfloss-soft dumplings filled with 04 artisanal Italian cheeses – Parmesan, Mascarpone, Ricotta, Gorgonzola – with the latter ascendant, positioned like lilies in a shallow lake of 24-months-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano fondue.
Though Spaghetti Bolognese is an oft-spurned cliché or hastily prepared travesty, you can't beat it in its pomp. If there's one gripe about La Dotta it's the absence of spaghetti but Tagliatelle Bolognese (590), which with its rough-ground chunks of 24-hours slow cooked wagyu beef shoulder bolstering the slow-cooked sauce is the most expensive item, doesn't disappoint.
The 03 dried pasta choices offer different possibilities. In particular, Spicy Amatriciana (360), offered with Bucatini or Rigatoni, features 04-hours slow-simmered tomato sauce, cured pork cheek and Pecorino Romano cheese.
Dining this gratifying should never end without dessert. Besides Bambolini doughnuts with Nutella, and homemade ice creams, lemon tart with walnuts & pistachios (240) shows that Italian culinary artistry with tomato-, cream-, and basil-based sauces is equally in evidence with lemons, the robust cream here accentuating flavour with the barest hint of sourness.
There's no welcome bread basket but freshly grated parmigiana flows freely.
Fresh fruit-based cocktails are created by Vesper's award-winning mixologist. Red, white and "orange" (fermented with grape skins) wines (from 220/glass) are mainly organic, biodynamic and/or sustainable. Italian craft beers are available.
02/03-course Smart Lunches (290/370) and Specials rotate bi-monthly.
Open 11:00-14:30, 17:30-23:00, last orders 22:30.
Valet parking evenings and Sat/Sun lunch. Prices are subject to VAT but not service charge, so tipping is welcome.
