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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Fort Lauderdale: the insider’s guide

Beach Fort Lauderdale Florida USA
Fort Lauderdale promenade, a great place for a stroll. Photograph: Alamy
Samantha McInnis
Samantha McInnis.

From her beachside studio the Clay Cache, Fort Lauderdale artist Samantha McInnis creates ceramics inspired by the region’s beautiful coastline. McInnis was born on Florida’s west coast, but a yearning to be on the Atlantic side of the state prompted a move to Fort Lauderdale in 2007. A keen diver and member of local conservation group Stoked On Salt, Samantha has a passion for the ocean and coastline that is reflected in her artwork.

Take to the water
Fort Lauderdale isn’t called the “Venice of America” for nothing: pretty much everything here revolves around the miles and miles of waterways that permeate the region. Boats are everywhere, so make sure you hop on and off the water taxis. Top of your to-do list should be a trip on the Jungle Queen, an old paddle steamer. It’s kind of cheesy but they take you on a sightseeing tour of the New river, pointing out all the big mansions owned by the rich and famous. If you’re visiting in March, check out the annual Fort Lauderdale Boat Show – it’s the time to drink champagne and pretend you can afford a mega yacht.

Two of the most famous sights on the water are Stranahan House, which is the oldest home here, a trading post that was turned into a grand mansion with wide verandahs and bay windows by a local businessman. The other is Bonnet House Museum & Gardens, another grand plantation-style home that is now a museum. I went to a wedding there not long back and the gardens are absolutely beautiful.

Get back to nature
Fort Lauderdale promenade is great to stroll. It’s always bustling with skaters, joggers and cyclists and the beach is very popular. If you want a quieter option, then Deerfield beach towards Boca Raton is worth the effort. Or head for Hugh Taylor Birch Park – a big park by the beach. There’s a fee but there’s tons to do in there. For a nature fix you should go to the Flamingo Gardens, a wildlife sanctuary to the west of the city with lovely gardens and a big aviary. My thing is diving and if you like scuba or snorkelling there’s plenty of it on this side of the coast. You don’t even need a charter, you can just walk out from the shore or hire a paddleboard, there are beautiful reefs everywhere.

The Bonnet House (also known as the Bartlett Estate) is a historic home in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, United States.
Bonnet House, a plantation-style home that is now a museum. Photograph: Amy Cicconi / Alamy Stock Photo/Alamy Stock Photo

Shop for one-offs
As an artist, I always encourage people to shop local. If you are looking for bargains and sales then Sawgrass Mills mall is the place. It’s got all the best retail stores but at outlet prices – a real shop-till-you-drop experience. It’s located way out west, so you need a car. Closer to town you have all the usual brands in the Galleria. Locally, I recommend any of the boutiques in east Fort Lauderdale: Thousand Pound Egg is a tiny little boutique located off Sunrise Boulevard just before you go over the bridge to the beach. It’s full of products from local artisans. I get my hot sauce there and the owner is so sweet she will always give you tons of free samples of other delicious treats. She also owns a yoga studio next door called Red Pearl, which is wonderful. That little strip has one of my favourite bikini shops too, Montce Swim.

Sample some sushi
I love sushi and thankfully there is plenty of raw fish around here. Pick of the bunch is S3, which stands for sun, sand and surf. It’s a smart spot on A1A – State Road A1A is a north-south Florida state road that runs mostly along the Atlantic Ocean – where you can just watch the people cruising by.

Sink a craft beer
Craft beer is hot at the moment, and Laser Wolf is one of the coolest places to sink a few. It pulls in a hipster crowd, as does Funky Buddha where they brew their own amazing beers. They have a Mango Double IPA on at the moment that might just be the best beer ever made. Their Maple Bacon Coffee Porter is so famous that the moment it’s released people queue round the block for a bottle.

Find the buzz
Pretty much everything In Fort Lauderdale itself is centred around the Riverwalk and Las Olas Boulevard, which runs west to east – it’s where nearly all the most interesting boutiques, bars and restaurants are located. The bars stay open till 4am so you can really party here. My go-to is Original Fat Cats just off Las Olas. It’s kind of a dive bar but the bartenders are great and they have a local reggae band once a week. Tarpon Bend is awesome. It’s named after a huge silver game fish that people fish for on charters round here. Every restaurant and bar seems to have one mounted on the wall and this clubby place is no exception. America’s Backyard pulls in a younger college crowd for its dance parties.

If you want something a bit classier, The Royal Pig has good cocktails and food. Right across the street, Vibe is the kind of nightclub you put your heels on for a great time.

With its bustling bars and clubs Wilton Manors is the region’s gay district, but everyone’s welcome. I go to the New York Grilled Cheese Factory with friends. It has the sweetest staff and the richest food.

The entrance to the Swap Shop Flea Market and Drive-in in Lake Worth
Catch a movie at the drive-in at the Swap Shop flea market. Photograph: Alamy

Catch a band
Naturally there’s lots of live music going down in a place like this. Try Culture Room off Brooklyn Park or Revolution. To chill out you should do the Jazz Brunch, which is a once a month thing on the Riverwalk. It’s free, you just mosey along and soak up the sounds.

Impress a date
One of my all-time favourite things to do is to go to the old drive-in movie theatre at the Swap Shop, a kind of flea market on West Sunrise Boulevard. It’s perfect for a date. You rock up and tune your radio to the AM broadcast so you hear it through the car speakers.

Pop to the Bahamas
One final tip. If you fancy a great weekend trip, the Bahamas Express sails from Fort Lauderdale port to Freeport in just over three hours. When you get there I recommend Toni Macaroni’s Conch Experience right on the beach – the waiter goes into the water to fetch some pink conch, chops it up in front of you and then bakes it in tinfoil with macaroni cheese in a fire on the beach. Baked conch, mac and cheese. Awesome.

Start planning your Florida adventure at virginholidays.co.uk

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