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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Ailis Brennan

Forced rhubarb: Where to eat the English delicacy in London restaurants

Are you afraid of the dark? Rhubarb isn’t – at this time of year, the shadowier corners of Yorkshire make for the perfect place to grow this punchy English delicacy.

While field-grown rhubarb season occurs in Spring, forced rhubarb – the type grown in the dark that is often more tender in texture – comes into the pink during January.

After months of gorging ourselves silly on rich festive food, this sparky, tart vegetable (no, it’s not a fruit) makes for a refreshing addition to restaurant menus and is unsurprisingly being championed by chefs – and Instagrammers – across the capital.

From puddings to porridge via some pork belly, these are the forced rhubarb dishes to try in London over the coming weeks.

Portland

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Portland’s picture perfect Yorkshire rhubarb tart is made with brown butter crème mousseline and served with stem ginger ice cream.

£12, W1, portlandrestaurant.co.uk

Flor

The Borough Market newcomer fills its pastries with both rhubarb compote and poached sticks, before dusting with Tahitian vanilla.

£4, SE1, florlondon.com

La Dame de Pic

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Anne-Sophie Pic’s two Michelin-starred restaurant is serving Yorkshire rhubarb sorbet topped with a cherry leaf-flavoured meringue and shiso cream.

£17, EC3, ladamedepiclondon.co.uk

Hill & Szrok

Rhubarb isn’t just for dessert – this Hackney butcher and cookshop serves rhubarb with its roast mangalitsa pork belly.

From £15, E8, hillandszrok.co.uk

26 Grains

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Start the day right with a bowl of porridge in Neal’s Yard, topped with rhubarb ginger compote and cardamom granola.

£6.50, WC2, 26grains.com

Quo Vadis

A Soho stalwart championing English flavours, Quo Vadis tops its walnut meringue with rhubarb and lashings of lemon curd.

£8.50, W1, quovadissoho.co.uk

The Quality Chop House

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It’s just turned 150 years old, but The Quality Chop House still knows how to wow: this geometric rhubarb tart is flavoured with almond and served with creme fraiche.

£10, 90 Farringdon Road, EC1R 3EA, thequalitychophouse.com

Rochelle Canteen

Pudding queen Margot Henderson serves a simple pleasure of poached rhubarb with yoghurt and granola at her Shoreditch restaurant.

£6.50, 16 Playground Gardens, E2 7FA, arnoldandhenderson.com

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