My first visit to Vila Vita Parc was 10 years ago, long before I had any clue that I would end up moving to Portugal. The place was positively dreamy—a large, well-organized resort campus (54 acres) that showcases an idealized, perfectly manicured version of Portuguese culture and craftsmanship.
Years later, what I remembered from that trip was the food.
There was a lot of it—it was my introduction to the Portuguese national sport of eating, and to the way that it’s perfectly polite to spend lunch talking about dinner, then spend dinner talking about dinner tomorrow, and then spend that dinner talking about some great meal you ate months or years ago.
And as introductions go, it was a good one. At Vila Vita Parc, there was a lot of variety, a lot of time spent lingering around tables and especially a lot of quality. Dinner at the Michelin two-star Ocean was a delight, so many playful and flavorful courses. That one stands out in my memory. After a decade, the rest, I admit, was kind of a blur of garlic, cilantro and seafood.
And so, when I received notice that one of the resort’s six bars and 10 restaurants, Atlântico, had undergone a reinvention of sorts, I figured a repeat visit was in order. Some of the other restaurants had clear identities: Michelin, sushi, teppanyaki, German-style beer garden, traditional Portuguese.
But Atlântico had been a bit lost, despite its gorgeous space with views over one of the resort’s swimming pools and the Atlantic Ocean beyond. And so they used the great pause this year to commit to a new, clear vision.
Chef Pedro Pinto expanded his farm-to-fork philosophy (yawn) into something stronger and more interesting. His “roots” concept reflects his close relationships with local farmers and fishermen (something he doubled down during the lockdown when he saw how important it was to rely on hyperlocal products in his own kitchen).
But it also reflects a return to traditional recipes and humble, staple ingredients from a time before tourism brought prosperity to various corners of Portugal. Sometimes the “roots” concept means sweet potatoes and other earthy vegetables. And in that case, it’s even more unique and delicious.
And actually, I should maybe take back my “yawn.” As recently as 5 years ago, top chefs in Portugal were importing many ingredients because these things just were not available locally. So for a chef to be getting 90% of his ingredients locally is still a pretty big deal.
Pinto’s set menu of five “moments” is a delight, long on flavor and intrigue. Vegetables play a starring role, as they do on the a la carte menu. He estimates that 40% of the menu is vegan. Tomato, beets and cauliflower all shine here, with very little adornment.
And with that, I made another visit to Vila Vita Parc and fixated on the food.
But it’s worth noting that my room, in the Residence (the high-end, adults-only “resort within the resort”) was stylish and comfortable. And the cheerful coffee bar, Café Bica, serves what it says is the most expensive coffee in the world. And the adorable little beach beneath the cliffs that has good access from the resort (and difficult access from outside the resort) is a dreamy destination of its own.
But honestly, still, when I think of Vila Vita Parc, I will think of some very good food.
Looking for a more boutique experience in the Algarve? Check out my story on Farmhouse of the Palms.
