Folkestone still flies a bit under the radar when it comes to a weekend mini break. Margate gets all the “Hackney-on-sea” hype, and Whitstable the hoards of oyster-seeking tourists, and yet Folkestone punches way above its size for arts, culture and destination restaurants worth leaving London for.
Back in its early 20th century heyday, the town was the height of cosmopolitan glamour as the jumping off point for a boat train to France, with royalty and Agatha Christie holidaying at the Grand hotel and llama rides on the beach. But as British travellers turned to Europe, and the Channel Tunnel opened in the Nineties, Folkestone became better known for sad seaside dereliction than high-end holidays.
Yet over the last decade, this corner of south east Kent has been transformed — mainly thanks to art. Since 2008 it has hosted the Folkestone Triennial, the UK’s biggest urban outdoor contemporary art exhibition, meaning you can wander around town and spot sculptures and installations by the likes of Tracey Emin, Yoko Ono and Jeremy Deller. The Creative Quarter is now full of artists’ studios, independent shops and quirky bars.
With new luxury accommodation opening and Tattinger picking it as the spot for France’s first UK wine estate, now’s the time to check out Folkestone before it becomes too, err, Margate.
Where to eat
For brunch and the best coffee in town, head to Yoke with its terracotta walls and yoga classes in the basement. They bake the cinnamon and cardamom buns fresh every morning and the smoked ham and raclette toasties are legendary.
The Harbour Arm was a desolate railway station until its regeneration five years ago. Now “the Arm” has all kinds of interesting food trucks, from Korean fried chicken from the Bao Baron to fish tacos courtesy of Taco Shed. Grab a bite and sit on a deckchair overlooking the White Cliffs’ of Dover.
But if the weather’s bad, hole up in The London & Paris, for daily-changing dishes including monkfish with white miso and pork chop with pink fir potatoes. And Dr Legumes is rivalling London with its inventive vegan menu, think braised tempeh and maitake mushroom filled puff pasty pie and katsu seitan fillet burgers.
And of course, when you’re by the sea you have to sample the catch of the day. If you’re feeling fancy, head to Rocksalt, it may have lost its Michelin star but the seafood is still sublime. The locals will be at the seaside shack Chummy’s, scoffing super fresh prawns, oysters and crab sandwiches.
Where to shop
The Creative Quarter aka The Old High Street is full of brightly-coloured vintage shops, record stores and art galleries. It’s also up a steep cobbled hill, so it’s a workout and a shopping trip in one.
Rennies Seaside Modern is the place to browse vintage curiosities (because who doesn’t need more of those?). Moo Like A Monkey has chic kids’ clothes and toys. The Folkestone Bookshop has a well-curated selection of titles to browse.
Or The Marketplace on The Harbour Arm is dozens of decorated fisherman huts, offering local homewares, crafts, clothing and wellness products.
Where to drink
Grab a glass of natural wine or a negroni at Bodega at The Potting Shed, which also has a secret speakeasy at the back. And for more wines than you can shake a corkscrew at, check out John Dory in nearby Sandgate. You might be lucky enough to turn up on one of their guest chef nights, though booking is advisable.
For the novelty factor, you can’t beat The Lighthouse Champagne Bar, where you can sip a glass of fizz and try and spot France. And The Bayle is the oldest pub in Folkestone, with plenty of beams and local brews.
Where to stay
Unlike Margate or Deal, Folkestone isn’t full of boutique hotels yet, although The London & Paris now has a few rooms above it. But The Pig in the nearby village of Bridge is a great base to explore this part of Kent. The impressive brick building dates back to 1638, which means it’s full of impressive fireplaces, secret passageways and wood-panelled loveliness.
In the 1960s it was a music venue, and played host to the likes of Led Zeppelin and The Kinks, but nowadays it’s a much more sedate vibe with rolling grounds and an impressive kitchen garden. The hotel prides itself on showcasing the local produce, so it would be rude not to sample the wild cherry negroni or the ‘zero-mile mushrooms’ on toast, picked fresh that morning.
Each room is different but all boast cosy, sumptuous features such as roll-top baths in the bedroom and velvet sofas. Even the snuggest are elevated by the luxury little touches you’d expect from The Pig, including a bespoke blended herbal teabag on your pillow and handmade pig-shaped biscuits with your coffee.
The breakfast buffet feels like it stretches all the way to France, including fresh honeycomb to drizzle on your porridge and a pan to cook your own boiled eggs, complete with your own egg timer.
What to do
On most weekends there’s some kind of festival here, celebrating everything from documentaries to Kate Bush to books. In the summer, The Goods Yard, on the Harbour Arm has a huge screen showing a mixture of sports and films, and it also hosts gigs and DJ sets.
The Quarterhouse offers live music, comedy, film, talks, theatre and children’s entertainment, and there’s an amphitheatre that hosts workshops, live music, opera and theatre, many of which are free.
Take a walk along The Leas, a clifftop promenade route overlooking the sea. The Leas Lift funicular railway is under restoration and should reopen later this year, but for now you’ll have to walk down to the beach of Sunny Sands. No llamas any more, just a sandy secluded bay and some brave swimmers.
