June 25--Big City Chicken, the fried chicken concept hatched by Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises and M Burger's Chef Tim Hockett, opened today in Navy Pier's food court, so I went to check it out at lunch. The food -- crispy and moist chicken, skinny and golden fries -- seemed to fly smoothly to customers. My biggest squawks were the absence of trays to transport food from counter to table and that the root beer float promised on the very small menu wasn't available.
You can order fried chicken in 2, 3 or 8 pieces ($5.99, $7.99, $19.99), with a choice of white or dark and original or spicy. The original was delicately flavored and didn't distract from that crunchy brown skin. If you're looking for heat, try the spicy fried chicken sandwich ($6.49), which had more fire than the individual pieces.
Chicken strips, in a five-piece order ($8.99 with fries) were crunchier than the usual "fingers." I suspect they will appeal as much to adults as to kids. Dipping sauces include the usual suspects -- ranch, barbecue, honey mustard, spicy buffalo, ketchup -- plus a fun sriracha mayo. You get a choice of one with your chicken order; an extra sauce cost me 50 cents.
Skinny french fries ($2.99), my favorite style, are non greasy and reasonably crisp. The cheese fries ($3.99) were exactly that, fries topped with squirts of that yellow-orange melted cheese often paired with nachos. The chili fries ($3.99) add slices of pickled jalape
This eatery, which shares a long counter with LEYE neighbors Big Bowl Chinese Express and Frankie's Pizza by the Slice, greets you with a colorful chicken head sign and gleaming white glazed tiles on the counter front and walls. A window offers a peek into the rear kitchen.
Seating is what you'd expect in such a setting: Basic tables and chairs set is a rather utilitarian space. It's not an area made for lingering nor is it meant to be. This is a nice pit stop at which to refuel before heading back to Navy Pier's many attractions.
Big City Chicken, Navy Pier, 600 E. Grand St., 312-546-7440. Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.
wdaley@tribpub.com
