Besides its befuddling name, the big thing about "Nowhere", or "NowHere"?, is its elevation, in storeys, creative cuisine/cocktails, and style alike.
Inspired by low-level rooftop bars in East London formerly frequented by progenitor, Prare Kasemsri Na Ayudhaya, when not in Physical Theatre classes, the cache is close to a Parisian atelier/art studio.
Let from trendy Tha City Loft Hotel (corner of Ekkamai Soi 6), to go Nowhere, pass the hotel entrance to a small stairs and signage to an elevator. Press Fl.6, follow the corridor to the end and have your aha moment. The stripped-down interior is the work of Stu/d/o. M.C.Escher's mind-boggling tessellations spring to mind contemplating the mini staircases criss-crossing the space, forming tables, chairs, shelves and bar. Cryptic wordings, from ‘Road to Nowhere" to "You ain't going nowhere, but you are now here" make it vaguely trippy. Wood and steel-framed stools add a mid-century New York nuance. Window walls along two sides stream in light which is good for all the pot plants and mean you can enjoy sunset both inside and al fresco.
Bristling with bottles to the eves and four-square across the counter, the bar testifies to cocktail culture. Indeed, social lubricants are accorded equal billing with the food, with most dishes paired with a cocktail.
Those who come to eat, besides hanging with the vibe and wetting their whistles, embark on a voyage of culinary discovery where western forms are infused with eastern inflections. Prare and her head chef, have jointly created a thoroughly appetizing oeuvre that's uniquely Nowhere's.
A popular intro is Moo-Ping Pâté (B350++), an upscale take on the Thai streetfood favourite. Barbecued pork is blended into a paste with Chinese soy sauce and coriander to create a seriously delish pâté that, like the great French iterations, is spread onto a bland counterpoise. However, the sprinkling of pistachio, and toasted English muffins, make the crunch more than token. Asian values are retained with pickled veggies condiment.
Watermelon Salad (240++THB) is similarly inspired by Thai traditional "Tang Mo Pla Haeng". Sweet, chilled watermelon is served with baby spinach, topped with feta cheese and Japanese Katsuobushi fish flakes. This is dressed with a vinaigrette made with sumac, the Middle Eastern spice with a Chinese plum taste. The cocktail pairing, Where Are You Tonight? (350++), echoes the sumac and watermelon, blended with Amaretto.
Also signature Hoi-sin Beef (975++), grilled grass-fed rib-eye is rubbed with the thick, spicy Chinese sauce, stir-fried in it, and served with a side of it. Sautéed shimeji mushrooms, leek, potatoes and Asian salsa verde round out an exceedingly moreish meat dish.
The menu also offers tapas such as N'duja meatballs (260++), herby minced pork slathered with peppery Italian sausage and tomato sauce topped with melted mozzarella. A fitting cocktail might be Julep of Nowhere (350++) featuring chorizo fat-washed bourbon.
For dessert it is impossible not to recommend Apple Crisp (229++), a thick slice of baked apple filled with cream cheese and oats crumble, served with vanilla bean sauce and salted caramel ice cream.
There's lots more. Black truffle with special cream sauce pasta and pork ribs/African Harissa sauce for instance. Plus Mexicano di Florence (350++) a negroni twist with Alipus Mezcal, sweet vermouth, Campari, chili and honey, and Alice in the Garden (135++), combining rose petal, chamomile and lavender, which, like several other selections, reflects a partner's ownership of Hyrbes Teas.
Nowhere is walkable from Ekkamai BTS.
Open: Mon-Fri 5pm – midnight, Sat-Sun 11am-midnight.
Tel. 099-394-4417 – www.facebook.com/nowherebkk
