Christmas is a time for fun, nostalgia and cliches. It can stir feelings of wonder, joy and sheer anticipation at any age. In spite of my advancing years (all 36 of them), I still look forward to it with ridiculous pangs of excitement, and love everything about the festive season.
I want my Christmas served with all the trimmings. I want to be dazzled by grottoes and fairy lights and Santa's sleigh. I want to hear children giggle as they try to remember the words to Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer. I want pudding with brandy sauce, mulled wine, chestnuts (roasting on an open fire, of course) and ice skating – not necessarily in that order. Basically, I'm after the old-fashioned yuletide that's portrayed in the movies – the promise of magic I loved when I was a child. And now that I have a little one of my own, I want him to experience this too.
Thank heavens then, for Winter Wonderland, an event that couldn't be more festive. I first visited this delicious slice of Christmas in Hyde Park in 2009 and was struck by the atmosphere before I'd even crossed the threshold. The site is huge, filled with stalls, rides and games, and the scent of spicy cinnamon biscuits and sizzling German sausages hangs in the air.
There is something for every age range: families are entertained in heated big tops and smaller kids are captivated by the fairytale carousel rides, old-fashioned helterskelter and visiting Father Christmas in his grotto. Older children have lots to keep them occupied too, such as exciting rides (including central London's only rollercoaster), the capital's biggest outdoor skating rink and a flight aboard the giant observation wheel.
The market stalls sell all manner of continental food and drink, as well as festive gifts. You can drink a stein of lager in a German-style beerkeller, huddled under the patio heaters as Christmas carols ring out, or tuck into English fare such as hot, spiced cider and hog roast at the Serpentine Bar and Kitchen. Sitting upstairs in Cafe Grell, eating bratwurst and looking out over the fair, is another highlight. You can enjoy a glass of real ale, or try a traditional German Feuerzangenbowle (that's a drink involving rum-soaked sugar loaf, mulled wine and a naked flame, in case you wondered).
The bars and eateries get busy, so it's a good idea to reserve a table if you're going with friends or a large family party. Entry to Winter Wonderland is free but it's worth booking tickets for the ice skating, observation wheel and circus shows (including the new Cirque d'Hiver) in advance to beat the queues and avoid those crushing looks of children's disappointment that every parent dreads. Given the time of year it can also get cold of course, so be sure to wrap up warm. Dressing for the North Pole only adds to the Christmas feel.
Now in its fourth year, the 2010 event is set to be the biggest yet, with even more rides, stalls and entertainment on offer. Look out for the new Angels Christmas Market [angels-christmas-market.com], run by a group of retailers from Germany, selling artisan products from traditional wooden huts, just near the entrance.
Last year I visited Winter Wonderland with friends, holing up in a Bavarian-style lodge to beat the cold before making ourselves dizzy on white-knuckle rides and greedily nibbling at the gingerbread hearts, roasted nuts and stollen we bought from the beautifully themed Candy Castles. This year, I'm taking my six-year-old son to sample the seasonal action. I can't wait to see his face when he encounters Santa Land, Zippos Circus and more sweet treats than a little boy could dream of. But even if you're a big kid like me, there's no better place to get immersed in the spirit of Christmas.
Information: hydeparkwinterwonderland.com
