It’s no secret that the people of Denmark love to be outside. Along with their Nordic neighbours, they even have a name for it – friluftsliv. Literally translating as “living in the open air”, the term encapsulates a long-held Scandinavian way of life that embraces being amidst nature – in all weathers. With more than 400 islands surrounded by thousands of miles of coastline, the sheer variety of natural landscapes is breathtaking. You’ll want to lace up a pair of hiking boots or jump on a bike to see as much of it as you can.
For visitors to Denmark, it can be an exhilarating shift to head outside, whatever the season, and revel in the big outdoors. In summer, the beaches and wild-swimming spots obviously come into their own, while a warm sweater and waterproof jacket are always a good idea when trekking and cycling in spring or autumn. But there’s no need to go without the comforts of the city either. With so many natural environments close to Denmark’s urban areas, it’s easy to combine days out in nature with a return to chic hotels in Copenhagen, great restaurants in Odense or a little bit of hygge in Aalborg.
Hiking in Thy national park. Photograph: Mette Johnsen
Take a hike in nature
There are plenty of day-hike options out of Copenhagen, but the 13-mile circular trail around the perimeter of Furesø, just 12 miles north-west of the capital, takes some beating, with elevated pathways affording immense views of Denmark’s deepest lake. You’ll probably want to factor in enough time to take a dip at Furesøbad, a popular freshwater swimming spot for well over a century. Start early and make a full day of it, relaxing on the lake’s beach or refuelling at the Furesøbad restaurant – where the ultimate reward is the stunning view over the lake you’ve just circuited.
Alternatively, head to the true wilderness of Thy national park and explore Denmark’s dynamic and rugged north-west coast. The country’s oldest national park, on the edge of the North Sea, has 49 marked hiking trails that wend through undulating heathland, tangled forests and wide sand beaches (which you could also see by bike or on horseback). It’s free and open year round, perfect for multi-day adventures staying at guesthouses, inns or under canvas.
Clockwise from top: camping out under the stars in Thy national park; freshly gathered mushrooms; foraging for oysters. Photographs: Ruslan Merzlyakov; Ditte Ingemann; Mads Tolstrup
The old Rescue Road – once used to reach shipwrecked sailors – is now part of the West Coast Trail, which runs 50 miles alongside windswept dunes from the ferry harbour on Agger Tange through the national park to Hanstholm and Bulbjerg. Be prepared though – Hanstholm wildlife reserve is a breeding site for up to 40 bird species and the trail closes for several months during breeding season. (Always check ahead for updates and trail conditions on hiking sites such as AllTrails.)
Shaped by sea and weather, it’s no surprise that nature is king in Thy, with free-roaming red and roe deer and common seals basking at the water’s edge. Head to the highest point at Isbjerg for views of Nors Lake while searching for white-tailed eagles and ospreys. The north-west coastline also tells of Denmark’s food heritage, especially stockfish – cod that’s been hung out to dry, a centuries-old staple of local villages – and oysters, mushrooms and a multitude of berries. Luckily, it’s free and legal for visitors to forage in the national park, just stick to the old Jutlandic law of 1241 and only take a “hatful”. (Be careful, of course, with mushrooms, and always check if in doubt.) Better still, get a taste of Thy by ordering the national park platter at Stenbjerg Kro restaurant.
Cyclists riding past second world war gun emplacements near Løkken. Photograph: Visitnordvestkysten
See the country on two wheels
You can take your bicycle anywhere in Denmark, from city to shore. But if you’re after a cycle tour with a difference, head to the westerly Røsnæs peninsula. Jutting out some 9.5 miles from the Zealand coast, it’s known by local people as Denmark’s Napa Valley, with the perfect terroir for viticulture – including a dry and sunny climate. Book a tasting session or guided tour at one of the vineyards and stay for lunch at Dyrehøj Vingaard – Denmark’s largest winery. Take home a bottle of sparkling white or rosé from STUB winery – it’s the ideal summer accompaniment to a seafood plate – or cycle out to the lighthouse and discover its history and that of the Røsnæs reef.
Clockwise from top: Dyrehøj Vingaard; pottery in Lønstrup; the Rubjerg Knude Fyr lighthouse. Photographs: Jorgen Sevild/Dyrehoj; Mette Johnsen; Shutterstock
On the 11.5-mile Best of the West route from Løkken, in North Jutland, you can cycle over grass-strewn dunes past dramatic cliffs to another iconic lighthouse – the Rubjerg Knude Fyr. A working lighthouse until 1968, it was moved due to coastal erosion and now sits on the shifting sands of the Lønstrup Klint. Continue on to the old fishing village of Lønstrup – along the beach in low tide – where there’s a choice of accommodation and the chance to explore local arts and crafts.
Winter bathers at Klitmøller. Photograph: Mette Johnsen
Immerse yourself in coastal adventures
Wherever you are in Denmark, you’re never more than about 30 miles from the sea. And though all visitors will get a taste of salty air and sand on their adventures, those in search of watersports won’t do better than “Cold Hawaii”. The nickname for Klitmøller on the North Sea coast, the currents here create waves and breaks for all types of surfers. It’s become something of a mecca for Scandi surfers and has the chilled out vibe that’ll make you want to linger. Plus, windsurfing options at nearby Vorupør make this part of Denmark the top spot for gnarly adventures – just don’t forget your wetsuit.
Clockwise from top: surfers at Cold Hawaii; the South Fyn archipelago; on the beach at Klitmøller. Photographs: Mette Johnsen; Simone Juul Borring
Prefer a calmer day on the water? Head to the South Fyn archipelago, a stunning geopark of 55 islands and more than 680 miles of coastline. It’s one of northern Europe’s most beautiful regions, ideal for paddleboarding, sailing, boating, or simply island hopping on a day trip from Odense. And if you’re driving from Copenhagen, you’ll cross the Great Belt Bridge – one of the world’s longest suspension bridges. Learn to sail a traditional smakkejolle in Strynø, or head to Svendborgsund where the waters are tranquil enough to suit paddleboard beginners. You might prefer a guided kayak or canoe tour, or perhaps an outdoor culinary experience. Chop wood, smoke fish and forage for herbs before cooking a meal over an open fire. Take in the views of Svendborgsund while you enjoy the fruits of your labour.
However you choose to experience it, on foot, by bike, or afloat, Denmark’s embrace of the outdoors invites you to slow down and breathe deep – now that’s friluftsliv.
