Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle

Fay Maschler's week in food, from the Connaught to The Compasses

Darling, simply everyone goes to Hélène Darroze’s Galette des Rois party at The Connaught, where the tinkle of Dry January resolutions breaking rings out loud and clear. The eponymous almond tart is lush.

Jacob Kenedy devises dinner at Bocca di Lupo using extraordinarily pure and puissant Sabadì chocolate. Its inscrutable darkness renders ox cheek a Mexican mole — served with blood orange salad.

At lunch at Jin Li Leicester Street with Lizzie Mabbott, author of Chinatown Kitchen, I leave ordering to her, obvs. Sichuan grilled fish in chilli oil is in every sense sensational.

Egg and onion and beef stroganoff from the meal deal at Menier Chocolate Factory Theatre Restaurant before the distressingly topical (but outstanding) revival of Fiddler on the Roof.

Paddy Davy, chef at my son Ben’s country pub The Compasses, turns his deft hand to bánh mì Vietnamese baguettes.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.