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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle

Fay Maschler's week in food, from Brat to Chutney Mary

A Paris restaurant tip: Racines in the quirky Passage des Panoramas, where Simone Tondo writes a lyrical blackboard menu — with dishes such as the vitello tonnato — and discovers lovable natural wines.

Fonio (West African millet) and yucca fritters, tamarind, orange and Kalamata olive condiment kicks off the World Restaurant Awards Foods for the Future Lunch in Georges, the restaurant atop the Centre Pompidou.

Taking a young friend to celebrate his birthday at Brat in Shoreditch — where else? — we are both moved by grilled teardrop peas from Getaria in Spain.

Rafferty Maschler, my grandson, orders three rounds of char sui buns at Baker Street’s Royal China. Two are shared; one is packed for the train home.

Pepper and other black spices mine the excitingly dark southern Indian dish of Coorgi pandi pork curry at Chutney Mary. Idlis sit calmly beside.

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