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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Fay Maschler

Fay Maschler's week in food, from 45 Jermyn St. to The KPH

Sublime 42-hour roast Sri Lankan Jaffna goat shoulder at Trade, the Soho club for the catering biz, cooked by Karan Gokani of Hoppers at a dinner supporting Hospitality Action.

Confit duck leg with fennel and aioli at The KPH (Kensington Park Hotel). The pub that hosted Tom Jones’s first London gig now has Henry Harris and Ruairidh Summers on pans.

Grouse broth at restaurant 45 Jermyn St. simmered for days is an extraordinary distillation, an unanswerable riposte to critics of eating those birds.

At the mill house of my staunch friend, the gifted cook Caroline Conran, ideal rainy Sunday lunch of glazed gammon with home-grown parsley sauce followed by apricot crumble.

A new branch of Efes Turkish restaurants is open on the corner of Cleveland and Maple Street W1. Tabbouleh, hummus, adana kebab, pickled vegetables and cacik make a vibrant supper.

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