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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Exploring the Scottish Highlands: lowdown on the high road

Driving in the Scottish Highlands
Big skies on the open road. Photograph: David Lichtneker/Alamy

Ah, the open road. What could be better than mile upon mile of winding asphalt, lacing its way through epic scenery with nary a roundabout, let alone a traffic light, to slow you down?

And there’s nowhere better than the Highlands to experience such a drive. Get out there and follow our pick of the best routes.

Across the sky
Driving to an island remains a rarity and what an island you’re in for with this drive. Skye is cinematically beautiful, and the best way to see it is to get out on the road. Pick up the A87 at Kyle of Lochalsh, cross the sea loch and arrive just outside Kyleakin. From here it’s just under a 50-mile drive across the island to Uig, a dramatic horseshoe-shaped bay from which you can keep on to Harris or North Uist by ferry. First though, enjoy the drive in the shadow of the Black Cuillin, surely the country’s most spectacular mountain range, hugging the island’s indented coast, skirting lochs and passing through the attractive fishing village of Portree, the island’s only real town.

Black Cuillin
Black Cuillin casts its shadow over Skye. Photograph: Patrick Dieudonne / Robert Harding/Rex

Through the mountains
Fancy a drive across sub-arctic tundra? Yes, you really can do that in Scotland, in the Cairngorms national park, the UK’s most extensive mountain massif – and the very best place to ski in the country.

Set out from the picturesque village of Ballater and drive west along the river Dee on the Royal Deeside Road, before striking off north and into the mountains on the A939. The slender road passes through the barren moorland of the Grampians, where snow clings to the bare ground in winter, to reach Corgarff castle and its star-shaped perimeter wall.

From here it’s serious uphill all the way so drop down a gear and enjoy the ride, past the pine trees and through spectacular scenery. Frequent viewpoints break up the adrenalin rush until, that is, you reach Lecht ski centre, with its challenging ski runs and snowboard park. From January to March there should be plenty of snow on the ground, otherwise there’s always hot chocolate in the new alpine lodge!

Loch Ness
Stick to the east bank of Loch Ness to avoid the crowds. Photograph: Steve Black/Rex

Along the loch
You want to see Loch Ness; you do not want to see the crowds. This is the answer – stick to the east bank and the B862 followed by the B852. This sometimes single-track road runs off the main A82 at Fort Augustus and follows General Wade’s military road, built in the mid-18th century as part of the British government’s attempt to tame the Highlands.

But this is a landscape that cannot be tamed and you’ll probably have its pine trees and chunky heather-clad peaks all to yourself as you drive on north to reach the lochside at Foyers. From here on to Dores you’ll have the loch for company, stretching out ahead and behind you in all its shimmering glory. Look out for the infamous monster and wonder at this fact: Loch Ness contains more fresh water than all the lakes of England and Wales combined.

Stop for some pub grub at the Dores Inn, where you have one decision left: return by the same route or do a loop of the loch by returning along the A82 to see the busier west bank? And to try some more monster-spotting, of course.

Glenfinnan viaduct
The viaduct at Glenfinnan will be instantly recognisable to Harry Potter fans. Photograph: Getty Images

Into Bonnie Prince Charlie country
The A830 is known as the “road to the isles” and leads from Fort William to the port of Mallaig over some 43 miles of epic Highland scenery. Drive along the edge of Loch Eil, which is open to the sea and has occasionally been visited by whales, puffing in its deep dark waters. The mountains ahead beckon. Take the road that climbs sharply between their velveteen green slopes and rough-hewn rocky edges.

Make a stop at Glenfinnan where the viaduct will be instantly recognisable to any Harry Potter fans (the Hogwarts Express is seen crossing it in several of the films) as well as to anyone familiar with Jacobite history. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard on the shores of Loch Shiel, sparking the Jacobite Rising. Today, a monument stands, an 18 metre-high construction which is easily dwarfed by the thrusting Highland peaks that surround it.

From here the road is both flatter and straighter but the scenery is just as stunning, especially once you reach the Atlantic coastline to find azure waters and dramatic offshore islands. Beware: this is scenery that may make you a little misty-eyed – and have you boarding the next ferry out from Mallaig to Skye or the Small Isles.

Need a soundtrack to your Highland adventure? Check out Enterprise Magazine’s guide to having a rock ‘n roll drive through the Scottish countryside.

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