Beginning a trip with local wines is my favourite way to get to know a place. Doing so at 20,000ft? Magnificent luxury. On board a little prop plane from Gatwick to the Italian city of Bolzano, airline staff plied us with hot drinks, snacks and a delicious Alto Adige pinot bianco – a warmness I quickly learned was typical of South Tyrol.
This region is famous for its proximity to the Dolomites: charismatic mountains with silhouettes as familiar to me as the faces of celebrities.
Thousands of people travel to South Tyrol for a glimpse of their towering beauty every year, and some are even brave enough to climb to their summits, or use their steep slopes for adrenaline-fuelled downhill pursuits.
Bolzano is a stylish Italian city with the soul of an Alpine ski resort. Each street has weinstubes for local wine and rustic traditional food, cafés for aperitivo, squares for enjoying a gossip, and beerhauses for a seidel or two. This is a place for indulgence, and one that marries the bustle of community life with the grandeur of its surrounding nature.
In fact, it was for indulgence that I retreated into the mountains. I was staying at Hotel Belvedere, where guests can book a massage with oils from the nearby larch trees to ease aching muscles after a long day on the trails (or on the aperitivos – we do not judge here). Or soak worries away in the exceptional mountainside infinity pool. I did both and I can confirm that swimming while surrounded by mist feels like being suspended gently in the sky.
The dining here is refined, but reassuringly local, too. Head chef Christian Reiterer uses eggs from his family home, and sources his ingredients from farmers within the valley.
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The countryside, though, is the draw, and a guided walk – weather permitting – is the best way to explore it (and can be arranged via the hotel). Many hundreds of miles of tracks can be discovered through climbing, horse riding or mountain biking, and I found the reception desk to be willing enablers of my outdoor whims.
Helpfully, there is a 15-minute shuttle service to Bolzano. And the journey between the city and nature will be even easier next year, as a cable car from the hilltop to the town centre will open – a handy five minute walk from the hotel.
In the winter, of course, there is skiing. For this, you might want to get closer to the action.
Hotel Hubertus, close to the town of Bruneck, is a stunning architectural feat. Its “Heaven and Hell” spa, suspended in the air like presents falling from Santa’s sleigh, and its “Skypool”, jutting impossibly into the valley, truly make the most of the landscape.
If you’re outdoorsy, it’s ideal, as even the rest-day jacuzzi takes place directly on the mountainside, in the cradle of its natural beauty.
And for hitting the slopes, there’s a cable car that takes you directly to Plan de Corones, a ski resort in the hills of Bruneck.
Here, as well as great skiing for all levels, is an art hiking trail, a mountain bike track, and a creatively-designed restaurant by three-Michelin-starred chef Norbert Niederkofler.
AlpiNN is styled like a contemporary stube, all natural wood and comforting cosiness, with floor-to-ceiling glass looking out over the Dolomites, and food sourced no more than 10km from the kitchen.
Housed within the stunning Lumen, a photography gallery, and a short walk from the Messner Mountain Museum (designed by Zaha Hadid), it’s a gem of a place for aprés-ski. I particularly enjoyed the contrast of beautifully presented dishes and servers wearing their snow-ready outdoor gear.
Food and drink is plentiful in South Tyrol, and everyone you meet will be keen to share it with you. In the hills, you’ll find traditional gasthofs, or guesthouses, serving home-grown vegetables and fluffy dumplings with the cosiest possible welcome.
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Then there are the more elegant options. At Hotel Hubertus, top Italian cuisine is prepared by head chef Antonio Triscari. Dining is complemented by wines from an impressive cellar, presented by two sommeliers who are a joy to chat with.
No matter how active you were during the day, you will not go hungry – in true South Tyrolean style, there are buffets available for “antipasto” in case you really need to stack up the calories (or you just fancy more of the delicious salads and seafood on offer – again, no judgements.)
In South Tyrol, active holidays can easily be pampering spa breaks and indulgent foodie escapes, too.
Skiing until your legs cried “no more!” and then drinking the night away might have worked in your twenties. But now? It’s time for a little bit of luxury, and a bit of comfort with your extreme sports.
You can still spend an afternoon getting muddy on mountain trails, but now the evening is about fine dining and good wine. In fact, Hotel Hubertus has a designated space for cleaning your walking boots, so you don’t have to take home filthy luggage, and a steam room nearby to warm up afterwards. That’s the sort of luxury you deserve. South Tyrol has it all.
How to do it
Fly directly to Bolzano with SkyAlps from London Gatwick in under two-and-a-half hours. Transfers can be organised independently or with your hotel – contact them to organise. Bolzano airport is a small and convenient airstrip situated within the city boundaries, with easy taxi and public transport links.
Where to stay
Rooms at the Hotel Belvedere start at £313 per night. The on-site spa has three treatment rooms, including a couples-only space.
Or for something particularly indulgent, stay at the Alpin Panorama Hotel Hubertus for its extraordinary architecture and proximity to ski slopes. Nights from £685.
Katie was a guest of Lemongrass PR and SkyAlps
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