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Nottingham Post
Nottingham Post
Entertainment
Lynette Pinchess

'Exceptional' Nottingham city centre restaurant transports you straight to Milan and Rome

Just when you feel like burger joints and fried chicken outlets are taking over Nottingham city centre, along comes a gem of a restaurant that stands out head and shoulders above the rest. Amazing, exceptional, wonderful, a must, stunning - these are some of the rave reviews Bar Gigi has attracted.

We've eaten there before but one of the joys of the Italian restaurant is that the menu regularly changes so there are always new dishes to try, alongside the favourites that woe betide them being removed. Yes you, fillet steak and parmesan pillows.

When looking for somewhere special to celebrate our daughter's Master's graduation this was the unanimous winner after musing over all our best-loved spots to eat. Despite being slap bang in the city centre - overlooking Old Market Square - Bar Gigi is hidden and would be easily bypassed without a second glance if it wasn't for the tables and chairs outside.

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But head upstairs and you'll find the most beautiful setting in the 14th century Flying Horse Walk building. Ancient meets modern with original wooden beams, decorative leaded light windows, stylish marble-topped tables, neon lighting and the showpiece... an immaculate, gleaming 1958 lime green Fiat 500. And deep beneath - if you're lucky enough to be given a tour - there's the most amazing network of caves.

We could be in Milan, Rome or Florence - anywhere but Nottingham. Unlike typical Italian restaurants, there's no pizza and no pasta on the menu. Instead, it's mostly small plates and one or two dishes you could have as a main with a couple of sides.

The best thing about going as a group is that you can choose a good selection of all the dishes, which are delivered to the table like tapas. The worst thing is when there are four of you diving into a small plate, it doesn't last long and leaves you wanting more.

That's what happened with one of the specials. The finely sliced slivers of raw trout adorned with capers, pickled turnips and dill were so simple yet so vibrant and fresh. It's the same excited feeling as when your football team scores in the first 90 seconds of the match.

Just as we polished off the last mouthful, out came a mound of burrata. Commonly served with tomato and basil, this had a twist. The creamy soft cheese is paired with grilled peaches, broad beans, minty salsa verde and tromboncino. Yes, I had to Google that, too. It turns out it's a type of squash that adds texture to the plate.

Arriving at the same time was a bowl of Sicilian green, yellow and red tomatoes, with olives and crispy cubes of focaccia, which soften slightly with the juice of the tomatoes. Again, so simple, but the quality of the ingredients shone through and I couldn't get enough of the tart greens and sweeter reds.

By now we were fully into the swing of it. We basked in the imaginative plate of asparagus. The firm green spears bathed in a gorgeous gorgonzola cream and topped with a fried egg yolk and a cheffy foam giving the plate a touch of fine dining finesse.

As well as tasting sublime, each plate looked stunning, bursting with colour. The gnudi was no exception. The little dumplings were like gnocchi except they're made with ricotta cheese rather than potato so they're lighter. Combined with the sauce they melted on the tongue with a creamy, minty pop. Pink chicory added both colour amongst all the greenness and a mild bitterness to cut through the richness.

The last three dishes to arrive were like good friends - they're always there and never let us down. Big juicy scallops topped with spicy 'nduja were an absolute flavour bomb - like Eurovision Song Contest strobe lights reverberating around your mouth.

A larger plate with slices of fillet in rosemary butter and salmoriglio (an ancient Italian lemon, garlic and olive oil dressing). The combination is nothing short of heavenly, so tender, so flavoursome, with sweetness from the caramelised onions.

And finally... the parmesan pillows. Delicately crisp on the outside and light with intense, gooey cheese inside, they're like biting into a fluffy little cloud of joy.

The eight plates between four served us well. Personally, I'd have ordered another serving of the trout special as it was so good but everyone else wanted pudding so we shared an authentic Italian dessert of panna cotta with an international spin, using tonka beans and shiso, and limoncello posset with a raspberry drizzle and shortbread crumb.

Every plate cleared, each glass of wine, beer and an Aperol Spritz drained, it's over. Service throughout has been faultless, from the warm welcome until the last plate is cleared by smiley staff with a glint in their eye and genuine passion to make sure you've had the best time.

The bill for food and two rounds of drinks comes to £183 and it has been worth every penny for such a momentous occasion. The stars aligned when a stock room above a Nottingham fashion boutique was turned into the restaurant last year.

The elegant surroundings, the imaginatively wonderful food and exemplary service come together for a memorable feel-good experience. Nottingham has scores of award-winning restaurants and Bar Gigi deserves to be amongst them.

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