Back in 1968, Patek Philippe got the calculations right in fashioning a timepiece that departed from traditional round watches.
The Golden Ellipse was shaped as a cross between a circle and a rectangle, with this balanced proportion inspired by the golden section, which goes by other names, such as the golden ratio, golden mean and divine proportion.
Discovered by Greek mathematicians and represented by the Greek letter phi, the ratio of 1:1.6181... is relevant to geometry, art, architecture and the beauty of the human face, as well as the unmistakable face of Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse.
Two new models housed in the iconic case have been released by the Swiss watchmaker to celebrate its 50th anniversary in 2018.
The Golden Ellipse has always been about minimalism, ever since the 1968 debut of the yellow gold Ref 3548, whose gold hands and hour markers seemingly floated over a shimmery blue-gold dial.
In the late 1970s, Patek Philippe actually offered 65 different models, in response to the popularity of the stylish elliptical timepiece.
Over five decades, reinterpretations came in different sizes, precious metals, dials, straps and bracelets, as well as bejewelled versions, including those with strap lugs echoing the case shape as elegant double ellipses.
In 2008, a grand-taille platinum Golden Ellipse with a sunburst blue-gold dial was launched on the occasion of the 40th anniversary.
The 50-year milestone is marked by another jumbo dress watch, Ref 5738R, and Golden Ellipse Rare Handcrafts Ref 5738/50P.
The Ref 5738R boasts an ebony-black sunburst dial contrasting the rose gold case measuring 34.5x39.5mm. The height of 5.9mm makes it the thinnest Golden Ellipse, whose timekeeping is driven by self-winding calibre 240 with an off-centre gold mini-rotor completely recessed in the bridge plane.
Powered by the same ultra-thin movement, the platinum Golden Ellipse Rare Handcrafts is as svelte, but with a height of 6.58mm.
The embellished dial features an interlacing volute pattern and a central motif evoking the Calatrava cross, Patek Philippe's logo, against a black-enamelled white gold plate.
Enamelling and engraving are among the artisanal skills preserved by the last independent, family-owned Genevan watch manufacture, founded in 1839.
A priority for Patek Philippe is to safeguard these Genevan traditions that for over 400 years have been used for decorating timepieces. The Swiss maison has also developed expertise in mixing the savoire faire in a single creation, such as the commemorative Golden Ellipse Rare Handcrafts model.
The elaborate decoration blends in with the watch's bold contours and emphasises the harmony of the golden section. Strap attachment is discreetly concealed beneath the caseband so that nothing distracts from the elliptical shape.
The silhouette has also been translated into cuff links designed to co-ordinate the two latest models.
The rare handcrafts version has "Ellipse d'Or 1968--2018" engraved on the case back, and is presented with matching cuff links in a box, as a limited edition of 100 sets.
