Forget Formula 1, Wimbledon and the Oasis reunion tour... The topic dominating the digital discourse right now is Michael Rider's Celine debut—and with very good reason.
Taking place recently in the French fashion house's Parisian headquarters, the hotly anticipated Celine Spring 2026 show marked the beginning of a new era for the brand under the creative direction of the hitherto-relatively-unknown American designer. And by all accounts, it was an absolute triomphe (get it?).
In case you've forgotten—and I wouldn't blame you, given last year's barrage of creative director changes at top fashion houses—Michael Rider was appointed artistic director of LVMH-owned Celine in October 2024, following Hedi Slimane's exit after seven years at the helm. Well-known to industry insiders but less-so in the mainstream, Rider's CV includes stints at Polo Ralph Lauren, Balenciaga (under Nicolas Ghesquière, no less), and a decade as design director for Phoebe Philo at Celine.
Naturally, it's the latter that has had the fashion world excited above all. Would Rider's appointment mark a return to the much-missed Philo-era glory days of the brand? Yesterday's show certainly suggested it might be so.
Much to longtime devotees' delight, Rider's Celine Spring 2026 collection was rife with Philo-isms, from the return of the Phantom bag, to the relaxed tailoring, silk scarves and minimalist moments peppered throughout. Rider also incorporated nods to the signature rock'n'roll aesthetic of his predecessor Slimane, such as skinny jeans, sharp shoulders, lashings of leather and cropped faux furs.
But while homages to the brand's heritage were present, they were not the whole point. Rider's collection offered an evolution of house codes, imbued with fresh personality and his unique POV—be it in his elevated take on preppy-chic and modern equestrian vibes (a reference to his time at Ralph Lauren, perhaps?), or pops of primary colours, elegant silhouettes borrowed from French history, and cleverly covetable selection of accessories.
The ingenious styling seen at the show also deserves special mention—particularly since it's the only element we can copy while we eagerly await the collection drop later this year. Belts, Rider decrees, are officially back, and should be worn in multiples and/or laden with chic charms. Chunky necklaces and bracelets should be piled on to the extreme, and rings worn on every finger, all the way up to the knuckle. Silk scarves are a new essential, whether draped nonchalantly over the shoulder, atop a jacket, or peeking out from under a collar. And layering is not just practical, but effortlessly cool—take cues straight from the catwalk on this one, too.
Little wonder the VIP-filled front row—that included everyone from Naomi Watts, Dan Levy, and Alanis Morrissette to Raf Simons and Jonathan Anderson—erupted into applause at the finale. Meanwhile, insiders have already been compiling their pages-long wishlists from the collection and the internet has been ablaze with buzz and excitement. It seems that thanks to Rider, everyone wants to be a Celine girl again.
