Fortyfive Bar & Kitchen: 4 Sukhumvit 45Open 10.30am-1am. Last order weekdays 11.30pm, weekends 00.30amCall 02-662-4478 or email table@fortyfivebkk.com, Facebook: Fortyfivebkk
The Setting: Though Quince is moving "down the road" to Soi Somkid, for those who are more location-bound, the current space on Sukhumvit 45 has been transformed to a kinetic "Fortyfive Bar & Kitchen".
Keeping much of the same decor, the new additions include more tables and outdoor patio seating -- the couches having been moved to the front of the restaurant, but still hidden from the small soi by garden shrubs. Also out back are the BBQ grills. The wine room at the bar has been moved to make the bar bigger and more open.
But enough about the new decor, let's have a look at the new menu.
The menu: While much of the menu still has Quince favourites, executive chef Charlie Jones has added new items to it and hopes to change the entire menu soon.
From the Starters, I ordered the new Hay smoked king mackerel (B290). I am not a mackerel fan, the fishy and oily taste puts me off it. To get rid of this "fishy fish taste", chef Jones cold hay smokes the fish and then lightly cures it. A light ponzu dressing covers the slivers, which is topped with a raspberry powder, made from dehydrated raspberry leather. This powder is almost like the Middle Eastern berry spice, sumac, and offers the fish a bit of tang. More raspberry powder, please!
The Crispy squid (B360) is made Sicilian style. The squid is soaked in milk for 24 hours and then dusted with herbs and spices. It is left to dry overnight in the fridge and is dusted again before frying. What this process does is make the batter on the calamari darker and crisper, which also comes from the paprika and togarashi. This is the best tasting calamari I've had in a long while. If you know what Southern fried chicken tastes like, this is it. It is the drying out process that helps form the crust for that extra layer of crispiness.
I am one of those weird people who love sweetbreads and so I got the Lamb sweetbreads (B330). The sweetbreads are 30% brined for three hours and cooked down with white wine for 20 minutes, skinned and crumbed. The Jerusalem artichoke is made ajo blanco style and acts as a base for the sweetbreads, which are drizzled with chilli and garlic oil. A walnut crumb and Jerusalem artichoke chips compete the dish. Delish!
The Foie gras brûlée (B380) calls out to me From The Market menu. (Do not judge people, do not judge. At least I'm being honest). The foie gras is cured and marinated in port, is emulsified and compressed for 24 hours. It is then brûléed. What appears on the table is a square piece of French bread, onion jam, a thick slab of foie gras brûlée drizzled with chicken jus, and topped with a drunken mulberry, which is mulberry marinated in port. It is finished off with a bit of spring onion and is the most delicious thing I had that night.
The BBQ Pumpkin salad (B310) has got a bit of a tweak. The pumpkin is now completely baked, marinated and smoked in the grill for extra texture and smokiness. While the old version had just feta, the new version has ricotta and feta, and pumpkin seeds.
For mains, I ordered the Pork cutlet schnitzel (B850) -- pork loin and capers, wild rocket and anchovies. "I chose to do pork instead of veal because it's difficult to find local veal. A lot of the partners at 45 are German, so there is a bit of German on the menu," says chef Jones.
The Wok steamed mussels (B510) are cooked Asian-style -- in a broth of Chinese rice wine, garlic and parsley. The mussels are local as "45 is focusing on local seafood. "We have so much local seafood available so I rather use the fresh fish delivered to me three times a week rather than imported once a week," adds chef Jones.
For dessert, there's the Rhubarb and apple crumble (B220) with an almond and oat crust. It is served in a cast iron pan with vanilla ice cream atop. Good but I missed the tangy hit of rhubarb and the crumble top needed a few more minutes in the oven.
Fear not though, I am saving the best dessert for last. Ordering the Quince staple (which is still on the menu for good reason) is a MUST! The Soft chocolate (B250) is a delightful salted caramel, chocolate soil and peanut candy mix and is a good end to any meal. Sheer indulgence!
"45 is home comfort food bringing you back to familiar flavours from childhood. It's about nostalgia and simple cooking with elevated flavours. The focus is on local ingredients," says chef Jones about the new menu.
Insider's tip: Smell the garlic, smell the bread. Warm garlicky bread rolls come out of the oven every 20 minutes and guess what diners? You get to enjoy them! Ingenious idea! They don't even need more butter because of all that wonderful garlic butter mix that they are tossed in. The downstairs chef's table, across the kitchen has gotten cosier and is now a wine cellar and a caviar room. The caviar fridge keeps Grand Cru wines and magnums of Cristal company. Perfect for those private dining experiences. The programme of 45 will be event rich, tying up with Iron Balls Gin Parlour. Expect weekly events (culinary and more), starting with the grand opening soon.
Value and Verdict: For those loyal to Quince, 45 is gonna be your new hangout. Good for dinners before drinks at Iron Balls Distillery & Bar followed by dancing the night away at Sing Sing. It's good VFM and you're definitely not leaving with a belly half full.
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